Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sabino Canyon

Colorado Crush T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Echo Dancer T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hard to Swallow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Heart of a Rhombohedron T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Kor Wall T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mission Control T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Naked Prey, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tongue of Death T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Yabbadabbadoo! T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Asher Sussman, JMw 4/2011
Page Views: 658 total, 9/month
Shared By: JMayhew on Dec 8, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Each pitch has some junky spots you need to avoid and there are a few spots layered with decades of swallow droppings. Other than that, it's a great route! Definitely some fun, steep sections with great exposure.

Location

Approach as for the “Kor Route” then traverse right and up into the “Hiker’s Gully.” About halfway from the base of the Kor to the top of the gully look for a big, white-stained, right-facing corner on the upper half of the wall. To the right of this corner is a triangular roof with another smaller triangular roof just above, next to a small oak tree. The climb follows cracks past the right sides of both overhangs. The top of pitch 2 is just left of the tree.

As you hike up the gully, look for a small roof about 20’ up with a white stain underneath and a crack thru its left side. Stay in the main gully till even with the base, (best to leave packs here,) then traverse left into the smaller, steeper gully to the base.


1. Steepening crack thru left side of small roof, then up to ledge. Step right to small, ramping, right-facing corner with black stain. Wander up to access next main ledge up and right. Belay at base of next main corner. (130’, 5.10)

2. Climb corner then exit right onto face before getting to base of white corner, passing 2 bolts into cracks that lead past right sides of both overhangs. Belay just left of small oak tree at a bolt backed up by gear. (120’, 5.9)

3. Continue up corner a short ways until you can exit left onto face with a pedestal that is more solid than it looks. Up and left past 2 bolts then up onto large, slanting ledge with some loose dirt/rocks. Tip-toe to the right end and continue up past 1 more bolt to top. (100’, 5.7+)

Descent: Hike right and descend Hiker’s Gully to gear.

Protection

We used lots of stoppers, doubles thru #3, triples on .75 and #1 camalots, and a #4. (And that was just on the first 30 feet!)

Photos

Wonderful moves on this with an epic adventure setting. Mar 2, 2012
Derek Anderson
Tucson,AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson,AZ
 
great route! Mar 1, 2012
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
 
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
 
C'mon, Eric! I figured gneiss choss and bird crap would be an acceptable substitution. I almost gave it 2 stars, we were havin' so much fun! Dec 9, 2011
What, no lichen. I am taking half a star off just on principal! Haha. Dec 8, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Nice work Asher & Jeff! Looking forward to climbing it! Dec 8, 2011