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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Thomas Compare
Page Views: 3,755 total, 26/month
Shared By: Marc Kajut on Feb 3, 2006
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Climb up a short textured pillar to the top, transition left into the crack and continue climbing up through an offwidth finish.

Protection

Standard rack. Bolt anchor. Rappel station.

Photos

Scotty Dusek
San Diego
  5.9
Scotty Dusek   San Diego
  5.9
Fun climb with lots of variety. The pictures and topo make it look like its own pillar but it's actually part of a wall, the right leaning ramp and off-width bulge at the top should make it obvious to find. It's up and left from Vawter's Dihedral level with the top of skyline pinnacle.

The transition from the pillar to the crack is tricky and committing, pro is sparse at that point, a very small cam (green BD C3) protected it. After that it's fun and mellow. The off-width adds some good variety and a few grunts, just find the face holds and it's easy. Overall great route. Small cams were the most useful and the off-width is easily protected with 1" gear in the horizontal crack just before it.

Do the next climber a favor and blow out the dirt that collects in a couple spots if no one has been around for awhile. Jul 22, 2016
sdrockstar81
el cajon, CA
sdrockstar81   el cajon, CA
Where in the limbo area is this? Any climbs for reference nearby? thanks. Jul 18, 2014
alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.9
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.9
Crux for me was right after transitioning from the 'pillar' to the crack. 1-2 small-med offsets would be useful for lower section, but not needed. The largest I used was a #2 right below the off width. Slightly easier than Gallwas. Feb 11, 2014
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
If you want a bigger challenge, go all passive pro on this climb: It eats up nuts, offsets especially. Hexes protect the wide crack and horizontal before the offwidth, and even the offwidth itself. Aug 14, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.9
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.9
Agreed, no need for a #4. I brought my #5 and it placed beautifully, LOL. Good pro, a couple of committing moves that keep things interesting. Excellent climb by MG standards. Apr 13, 2013
Andre Kovacs
san diego, ca
 
Andre Kovacs   san diego, ca
 
For sure an overlooked climb. Has alot of variety with good protection the whole way. You also do not need a #4 for this climb. A #3 C4 protect's the OW well. Feb 12, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9
Such diversity of movement for such a short climb. Dec 23, 2012
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
 
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
 
You can get a #3BD in the off-width at the top, just have to plug it back a ways and find the "sweet spot". Also plenty of space for gear before the transition to the crack from the pillar. #0 Metolious UL TCU lower, then #.3BD a bit higher, but both before the transition. I found that it protected really well the entire way with no "desperate" gear placements, either. Stances were all good. Really fun climb. Oct 6, 2012
RockyR
Encinitas, CA
 
RockyR   Encinitas, CA
 
I followed/cleaned this climb! I love this climb. Has everything. A huge committed move from the beginning, a lie back, stemming and off width. I finally figured out my own sequence off the left leaning transition to the main wall from the boulder. I still have a few more section I need to figure out my own sequence and to finally do it cleanly on TR. Aug 17, 2011
Jesse Davidson
san diego, ca
  5.9
Jesse Davidson   san diego, ca
  5.9
No #4 needed for the top... just place in the horizontals below the OW and you'll be fine. Once you actually get into the OW section its two moves then you grab something and you're done. Nov 26, 2009
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
I have not yet found a climb of equal quality in Mission Gorge. The line is beautiful and outstanding amongst its shorter MG brethren. The top bulge offwidth section offering the perfect bit variety to an already fun climb, making this a major classic in the area. Definitely need a #4 for the top, although possiblities for other protection exist prior to committing to this section. Traversing from the pillar to the crack is definitely easier for the taller folks, but feet are solid and the pro is good. Oct 1, 2009
david baker
jamul, ca
 
david baker   jamul, ca
 
Great climb be careful traversing from the pillar to the crack on the main wall. The rock is slippery and the move is unsecure. After getting into the crack the pro is good on the rest of the climb. The crack becomes an offwidth at the top. Look for good holds just out of sight. To get to this climb from the main wall go past the Ramp toward limbo area. When you get to Vawters dihedral go left on climbers trail toward top of mountain. 60 feet up trail you will find Apostrophe. This is a quality climb that is not often done. Feb 8, 2006