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Routes in Limbo Area

Abacab TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
As the Crow Flies S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Baby Dihedral T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Back to Basics T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Batso's Resurrection TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Beke's Wild Ride T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bongo Fury T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cake Walk T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a PG13
Craig's Chimney TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Craig's Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crow Boulder S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deviate Behavior S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Digitalis TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Double Trouble S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Escape From The Underworld S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Facial Tissue TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
History Book T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Indecision TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Kathy's Memorial T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lord of the Flies TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mighty Monger S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mission Obscurity T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Monkey Dance S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ticket TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Punk Rock Show TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Revision TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Rift, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sloppy Seconds T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Standard Deviation S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top of the Pops. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Tower, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Turkey Chute T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Vawter's Dihedral T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Volume I TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Zig Zag TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Frank Noble, Mike Paul 1976
Page Views: 1,276 total · 13/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Jul 12, 2010
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

This route starts out moderate but increases in difficulty really quick. The meat of the climbing heads up a leftward slanting seam that provides holds about as well as it provides gear. There's a reason it's bolted. Old school 11a.

Location

Up on the hill. Head up from the base of The Rift/Mighty Monter/Vawter's Dihedral.

Protection

2 Bolts. You wouldn't want to fall in the wrong place on this route. For mortals we can toprope (bolts) it without too much difficulty by scrambling up left of the route. There are a couple of potential gear options for the lead but I have never paid them much attention on TR.

Photos

Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.11a
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.11a
A distinct crux just above the first bolt, which took me a few tries to figure out the sequence. The upper section is just a bit easier. Seems like it would be a heady lead, particularly as an onsight. Apr 13, 2013
Mackenan Grassi
  5.11a
Mackenan Grassi  
  5.11a
This one looks run out from the ground, but it's pretty safely bolted. The climbing up to the first bolt is fairly easy. The high first bolt limits any deck potential getting to the second bolt. The small hands and technical movement end just a few moves after the second bolt.

I consider this a hidden gem for Mission Gorge. Fun movement all the way up, especially the crux. Oct 8, 2016

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