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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2 from 5
votes
Routes in Aqualunge
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Apostrophe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aqualunge S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Bilbo's Hanging Garden Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bongo Fury T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cam Jam T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chimney Sweep T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Escape From The Underworld S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sloppy Seconds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| GPS: | 32.82583, -117.05078 |
| FA: | Galen Kirkwood, Byron Neal, 1975 |
| Page Views: | 2,340 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | mschlocker on Nov 5, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
Description
A mostly finger sized crack whose business starts right off the deck. Almost feels like a sport climb with some initial powerful and balancy moves. Once past the crux, follow sustained 5.9 moves up to the roof where you traverse right a little and finish up a short offwidth.
Location
Up the hill past Vawter's Dihedral area but below Apostrophe. A short cliff with a small roof. The roof is split into a very short offwidth section. Can walk around to get off or set a toprope.
Protection
Mostly smaller gear, but the anchor is best with ~3.5" pieces, so take some along. The clear crux is between the first and second protection pieces. The crux is hard and insecure. There is high potential for a short groundfall if you fall on your way to your second piece. A toprope can be had if you feel uncomfortable leading this.
2024: there are anchor bolts on top now.
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