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Broken Dreams
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C2
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 37.57228, -109.73536 |
| FA: | Paul and Andy Ross,(Var Leads) Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005 |
| Page Views: | 3,482 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Jan 21, 2006 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas.
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring. Indian Creek Raptor Closure walls include: Echos, The Wall, Far Side, Original Meat, Tenderloins, Second Meat, First Meat, Selfish, Six Star, Cliffs of Insanity, Public Service Wall, Disappointment Cliffs, Fin Wall, Broken Tooth, Cat Wall, Slug Wall, Reservoir Wall, Critic’s Choice.
Description
The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.There are two ways to approach the tower from the rim or the four wheel drive up the canyon.
P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors.(Register here as there was no place to stash on the summit ) Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.
Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.
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