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Routes in Dreamcatcher Tower

Broken Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Paul and Andy Ross, Cameron Burns. 7th Nov 2005
Page Views: 2,031 total, 14/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Jan 21, 2006
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details


The route up Dreamcatcher climbs the north face up the obvious crack line. For reasons such as weather, time, gear problems, etc. the ascent took three attempts over a period of a year. On the first two Andy Ross led the first and third pitch, Paul Ross the second, and then with great support from Mr Cam Burns, Ross eventually led the long awaited final pitch to the summit. Starts just right of a massive chimney up a short slab to enter the crack system.There are two ways to approach the tower from the rim or the four wheel drive up the canyon.

P1). Up the slab past two bolts, then follow the crack free and aid to double anchors. 130', 5.9 C2.
P2). Slightly overhanging thin cracks with intermittent bolts to double anchors. 70', 5.8 C2.
P3). Climb the overhanging thin crack for 25', and then the angle eases up a wide crack to double anchors on a large ledge. 100', 5.8+ C2.
P4). Move the belay right 25' to natural anchors.(Register here as there was no place to stash on the summit ) Traverse right past a bolt for about 30', then up a short bolt ladder to the summit. Rap and belay anchors to the left. 60', 5.8 C1.

Descent: Rap the route, taking care on overhanging sections.


Three sets of Cams from Aliens to two #5 Friends and One #6 Friend.Stoppers. Two 60m ropes.
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Your right Cam .. My favorite program in the 60's Feb 12, 2017
Paul, Aren't Bill and Ben Flowerpot Men?…

Cam Feb 11, 2017
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Congrats Ben and Bill and greetings from the UK.. Glad you had fun .. Cheers Paul May 7, 2013
-Bill and I climbed this 2/3/2013.
-Good route guys! Great view from the top!
-I was a little confused as to why the register was a pitch from the top until we got up there and realized there was nowhere to put it.
-We hiked in from the rim on the south side of the towers. We fixed a line on the way in and then found a way to hike out on the way out. 2 hrs in and 2 hrs out. I'm not super stoked to take this approach again. Feb 7, 2013
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
No know second ascent as of 2012 Dec 9, 2012
Paul, you are a slave-driver.
Cam Jun 19, 2007