Avg: 2.9 from 12 votes
Routes in Devil's Thumb
|Avenging Angel (of choss) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Devil's Spiral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Devil's Spiral Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Southeast Face (aka 'The Other Route That Dan Missed') T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, Grade II|
|Page Views:||5,165 total, 28/month|
|Shared By:||flynn on Nov 1, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThe climb: rope up at the saddle beneath the looming north aspect of the Thumb. Head up past an old pin, left up a ramp, around the corner onto more easy climbing with amazing exposure. Belay on any of several classic ledges. You're on the east side now. Continue the up-and-left-and-up routine across the east face, then step left (onto the south face) onto a ledge with astounding exposure! This will redline your Wow-Meter! Ease up buckets to the mind-boggling summit, complete with register and funky ol' rappel slings a few feet down to the north. This is a great spot for scenic picnics, as you have a 360-degree view.
The descent: One 60-meter rope puts you back in the saddle where you began; a 50-meter would leave you with some class 4 downclimbing. We beefed up the rappel slings a year ago. Keep your head on until you've reversed the approach ridge.