Devil's Spiral

The climb: rope up at the saddle beneath the looming north aspect of the Thumb. Head up past an old pin, left up a ramp, around the corner onto more easy climbing with amazing exposure. Belay on any of several classic ledges. You're on the east side now. Continue the up-and-left-and-up routine across the east face, then step left (onto the south face) onto a ledge with astounding exposure! This will redline your Wow-Meter! Ease up buckets to the mind-boggling summit, complete with register and funky ol' rappel slings a few feet down to the north. This is a great spot for scenic picnics, as you have a 360-degree view.

The descent: One 60-meter rope puts you back in the saddle where you began; a 50-meter would leave you with some class 4 downclimbing. We beefed up the rappel slings a year ago. Keep your head on until you've reversed the approach ridge.

A skeleton rack of finger to fist size stuff should be fine; no brass and no heavy metal are necessary. Long slings are vital; don't even bother with sport-type draws. A camera is absolutely mandatory. Bring along some excuse to linger on the summit.