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Routes in Devil's Thumb

Avenging Angel (of choss) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Devil's Spiral T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Devil's Spiral Variation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Southeast Face (aka 'The Other Route That Dan Missed') T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, Alpine, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,165 total, 28/month
Shared By: flynn on Nov 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

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The climb: rope up at the saddle beneath the looming north aspect of the Thumb. Head up past an old pin, left up a ramp, around the corner onto more easy climbing with amazing exposure. Belay on any of several classic ledges. You're on the east side now. Continue the up-and-left-and-up routine across the east face, then step left (onto the south face) onto a ledge with astounding exposure! This will redline your Wow-Meter! Ease up buckets to the mind-boggling summit, complete with register and funky ol' rappel slings a few feet down to the north. This is a great spot for scenic picnics, as you have a 360-degree view.

The descent: One 60-meter rope puts you back in the saddle where you began; a 50-meter would leave you with some class 4 downclimbing. We beefed up the rappel slings a year ago. Keep your head on until you've reversed the approach ridge.


A skeleton rack of finger to fist size stuff should be fine; no brass and no heavy metal are necessary. Long slings are vital; don't even bother with sport-type draws. A camera is absolutely mandatory. Bring along some excuse to linger on the summit.


mark felber
Wheat Ridge, CO
mark felber   Wheat Ridge, CO
Great location, so-so route except for the last move or two.

The rap anchor was looking pretty scrappy, I chopped out the two worst slings and put in a new one. Aug 25, 2010
Boulder, CO
kevinnlong   Boulder, CO
We climbed a slight variation to the spiral route which headed straight up the north ridge instead of spiraling around to the east and south faces. I found the crux of this variation to be ~5.6 right below the summit block itself. One follows a beautiful fist crack ~8 feet which diagonals upwards and to the left. The pro is excellent, and the moves are solid. I highly recommend it. Jun 4, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
We knocked this route off today along with several other parties that took advantage of the sunny day. It was actually fun being there with everyone else. Instead of staying low and traversing left in the sun, I opted to go up sooner and did a few 5.7ish moves around sharp aretes. This allowed other parties to take the usual route. The rap anchor just below the summit is about five pieces of webbing and cord tied into three rap rings. With a single 60 meter rope you can safely rappel back to a flat edged stone just a short downclimb above the saddle. Keep in mind that you are traversing towards the saddle, so put the rop in line with that. We drove in from the Corona Pass road out of Winter Park, which works better than taking the Rollins Pass road and adding the extra hiking. Sep 3, 2006
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Anyone ever climbed the bottom to the top, not just from the notch to the top? I'm not sure how the rock quality is but given the exposure and location, I bet it would be fun. Aug 7, 2006
Climbed this July 29th. Found a figure-8 rappel device at gear-up spot. Email me for return. Jul 30, 2006
I did this as a solo 10 or so years ago and was so "stimulated" by the exposed traverse onto the S. face that once on the summit, I could not enjoy my time up there because all I could think about was that I was going to have to reverse what I'd just climbed... It definitely deserves stars, not so much for the climbing, but for the location... Aug 19, 2005