Avg: 3.4 from 24 votes
|Type:||Trad, 350 ft (106 m), 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||6,024 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||shad O'Neel on Aug 7, 2005|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
The route goes up a large corner system on the right hand side of the alcove on the SE face. Begin in some thin easy cracks to a wide section. Next do a very height-dependent traverse. Im about 5 9" and could reach the key hold hold, if you [can't] reach it, I dunno what you'd do. Reef hard on this hold and get into the corner again. Follow this until a big ledge passing some 5.8 step up and around moves near the top. Classically, this pitch goes as 2 shorter ones but we were able to stretch a 60m rope to the ledge with only a couple feet of simulclimbing. The top of this pitch has some lichen but is good.
Step around a boulder traversing to the left and climb a short, sweet section of hands. Now just scramble to the top.
We walked back down through the saddle and back to the base of the route. Instead of going back up to the saddle we traversed around the [Boulder Pile] on the way back out, but I'm not sure if this is faster. There are some new no trespassing signs near the quarry on this exit path, but we stayed clear of private property. This approach is less up and down, but is completely through the burn and the new plant growth seems fond of thorns, making it potentially less pleasant of an approach. The slogging is worth the adventure at [Top of the World].