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Routes in 420s

Type: Boulder
FA: [BS/PG]?
Page Views: 2,335 total, 12/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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The Kingpin Boulder is closed to climbing Details

Description

Climb the left arete. Start the sit start on a jug. Move up and left around the arete to a slopey top.

Protection

The warm up boulder is just s. of the [Puffing Stone] boulder.

Photos

Cesar Valencia  
  V6+
SDS is the way to go. grades aside. It makes for a much better climb all around. Great problem. Apr 9, 2012
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
 
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
 
I certainly won't argue that one! If it's not fun, there's no point. Nov 30, 2008
Ricky Newman
Fort Collins, CO
  V6+
Ricky Newman   Fort Collins, CO
  V6+
Honestly, all that matters is that, at the end of the day, you have a smile on your face. Personally, a bigger smile spread across my cheeks after doing this problem from the ground. Sometimes I, too, lose sight of the fact that climbing is a completely subjective activity. I still argue that this line isn't contrived, but that is my subjective opinion. Nov 16, 2008
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
 
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
 
Just because the start makes it harder doesn't mean it's not contrived. There's still a bit of a perch move (for me) when going from the bad sloper to the big sloper, perching on a good foot and rocking up. Nov 16, 2008
Ricky Newman
Fort Collins, CO
  V6+
Ricky Newman   Fort Collins, CO
  V6+
I'm going to go out on a limb here, and say that the quality of the line is actually diminished if you don't start from the sit start. My reasoning; there is an extended crux (for me) starting from the sit start that isn't there if you start in the middle of the face. At several points in time, cursing the Perch, I swore that the start was very height dependent (being about 6'), but once your butt is off the ground and you grab the sidepull bloc, the fun truly begins. Sure, it's hard to "perch" yourself up on the face from the start, but isn't that what this problem is all about and, hence, why it was adequately named Perch? I can't ever see this problem being called "Stand n' Grab." Nov 13, 2008
Andrew Ryder
Arizony
 
Andrew Ryder   Arizony
 
Agreed, trying to avoid the good edges when starting on the low jug seems really contrived, and the moves are awkward. Starting from the thin left crimp and the arete sidepull, then going to the bad sloper and up, felt much more natural (and fun), even if the grade is lower. Aug 8, 2008
Aeon Aki    
 
SDS seems contrived and are the good edges supposed to be "off"? Oct 11, 2007
Another nice variant of Perch is to start at the base of the Arete, but then move into the horizontal holds briefly to allow you to reach up and grab the bad sloper just over the lip. From this reach quickly left to the sloper that Perch climbs the areta to.

Easier than Perch, but a good problem in it's own right. Dec 17, 2002