Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft (606 m), Grade II
GPS: 40.1677, -105.655
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,183 total · 20/month
Shared By: Mark Oveson on Jul 19, 2005
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

Follow the trail up the Middle St. Vrain valley to about 10,800', then leave the trail and climb a gully (snow in June, loose scree later in summer) up to a shoulder east of the summit of Elk Tooth at 12,100'. This gully is not pleasant after the snow melts out, but the best footing is to the right side on grassy or rocky areas. Follow the ridge west over a few false summits to the summit of Elk Tooth. One false summit even contains a false summit register! The actual summit of Elk Tooth is stunning, as it sits above a steep cliff on the south face. The real joy in this route, however, is that you can continue on to Ogalalla Peak. See the East Ridge of Ogalalla Peak for details.

Per Thomas Beatty: for a more direct variation, starting at the St. Vrain Mt. saddle provides some extra Class 4 moves that otherwise wouldn't have been encountered. There was one tricky section at about 11,700', but it is fairly straightforward. I'd use this variation during a winter attempt, since the St. Vrain saddle can be reached without traveling through avalanche terrain (from the Wild Basin side).

Protection Suggest change

None.

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