Avg: 2 from 19 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m)|
|FA:||Dan Hare, 1979|
|Page Views:||558 total · 2/month|
|Shared By:||matthew sawyer on May 16, 2003|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, firstname.lastname@example.org, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
1st submission: this is a fun, fun, finger crack. It is runout and a tad loose near the top. From the last good stance before things get steep, you can cut left to another crack, that I found easier to place gear in, though still 5.9, and then traversing slightly right to join the main route for the last 8-10 feet of Boulder Canyon-type knobs, flakes, scoops. The main crack has killer moves too, though on TR I was immensely enjoying the moves, to have had to stop and place gear.... You gotta flow through the section to climb it. The age old question is gear or go. It is an easy TR, there is a big tree, and there is a scary set of slings around mini-tree to be avoided at all costs. There is an easy walk around left side. When you park at the Lion's Den, maybe twenty yards west of the mine, take improbable 3rd/4th class ramps up and left, not fun. You might be able to see the bolts on the face or the distinct crack from the pullout. It is about 100 vertical feet above the road? There is a fabulous 5.10b sport climb to the left, bring a couple small/ medium nuts maybe for the top if you don't like to run it out a little, though you can go left into 5.5 v-slot. Straight up isn't too bad, 5.7 maybe.
2nd submission: this was the original line on the cliff. It follows an obvious, if somewhat irregular, crack up middle of the slab. Climb up this crack with both face holds and jams. There is a lower and an upper crux. The difficulties ease quickly after the second crux. The lack of visitors leaves some of this feeling a bit scruffy with lichen. Find an anchor at a tree.
Eds. apparently a bolt anchor has been added.
Descend to the left or rappel.