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Tempest
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.4 from 7
votes
Early Access
Routes in Central Chimney Area
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Central Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Radlands of Infinity, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tempest T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.0024, -105.3878 |
| FA: | Steve Matous, Dan Hare, 1980 |
| Page Views: | 1,630 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Ivan Rezucha on Dec 28, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Blob Rock, East Blob reopened from raptor nesting 4/21/26
Details
The USFS closed Blob Rock & East Blob for raptor nesting through 7/31/26.
3/14/25: Blob was reopened.
Seasonal restrictions in Boulder Canyon to protect nesting birds of prey
Boulder, Colo. (2/1/24) – to protect nesting golden eagles, the U.S. Forest Service is implementing annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning Feb. 1, 2024. The closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon.
From W. McCurry: as of 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock remains closed until 7/31/23. More info can be found: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
Previously: per K. Reid Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Arapaho & Roosevelt NFS: as of 4/15/22, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open.
Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing through July 31, 2022.
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Tempest has an exciting first pitch. The second pitch has several 5.9 sections. The Rolofson guide [calls] this 10d R. The R is definitely not true. I won't dispute 10d vs the 10c in Rossiter. The topo in Rolofson shows a 10d crux high up. That is wrong. It's 5.9 up there. The crux section is the start, angling left, and then the step right.
Scramble up the chimney under the first block, around the second block on the right, until above the large vertical flake/spike. Belay using the #/3/blue Camalot.
From the flake place a couple of cams semi-blindly, step up and place a nut. A harder move leads up to the overhang. You need to be careful to get good gear on this initial section, because if one piece pulls you could hit the spike. The gear is good, but make sure you get it. Place one or two small cams on either side of the overhang. There are two choices here: Swing left around the nose using a horn for your hands. This is pretty scary, because you end up on a sloping ledge with the only hand holds on your right, and the rope running around the corner to your (now hidden) gear. The alternative is to climb over the overhang to end up standing on the horn. You can place another cam from a squatting position on this horn. I did it this way. This ends the initial crux section. This section is quite sustained due to the need to place the gear close together, but the moves are not that technically hard.
Climb a few more moves up the crack and place a high cam. Silent Running continues up and left from here. Step back down to where you can step right to a ramp. On the step right you face a small swing, but it's very safe. If you're tall enough you can cross over with your left hand for a jug, but it's a hard and insecure move. If you're short, I'm not sure, but you may be able to stay low and move right on the ramp to a good hold.
After this, protect the second with a red/#1 Camalot and continue up and left on easier climbing. Belay off of mid-size cams where the crack becomes vertical.
The second pitch begins with a thin 5.9 crack that's a little dirty. Continue to a steep chimney/crack system. Stem up a few moves, and then do one hard move (a long reach for me followed by a thrash). Rossiter calls this 5.8, but figure on 5.9. The walk off ledge is just above. Walk left, down and back right to the start.
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