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Routes in Right Gully

Aging Time T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Decade Dance T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Elephant In The Room S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Ginseng Rush S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hypertension S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jolt Cola S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Orange Crush S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Respite S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vaso-power linkup T,S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Vasoconstrictor S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Vasodilator S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rolofson, Mah 1981
Page Views: 1,253 total · 7/month
Shared By: david goldstein on Sep 21, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2017 Seasonal Closures Lifted! Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is a quality trad route, mostly crack climbing.

Start on the same ledge as Vasodilator, above Ginseng Rush.

P1. Climb the corner at the left side of the ledge to bolts at the end of the 2nd pitch of Jolt Cola, 20', 5.9. The two pitches could be linked, but there would probably be significant rope drag, and the belayer would not be able to see the leader for any of the 2nd pitch.

P2. There are two cracks above the bolts. Decade Dance goes up the left, Aging Time (11b/c) the right (these routes merge halfway up). DD starts with moderate hands and fingers, encountering a crux at the step right to join AT. Encounter another difficult move at a bulging, thin corner after which a short, slightly run-out (#3 RP helpful) face traverse right leads to easier climbing. The anchor is two bolts with slings. A few feet below the bolts the climbing turns licheny and desperate; this direct finish can be avoided by pulling right onto the ledge system and walking over to the anchors. 80', 5.11a.

Descent: a 96' rap gets you back to the starting ledge. It is probably better to do two raps, using the Jolt Cola anchors; this would avoid some loose downclimbing.

Protection

Basic Eldo rack. I placed gear from #3 RP to #2.5 Friend with several Rocks from #2 to #7 and small to hand-size SLCDs.

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