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Routes in East Ridge
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L.O.O.P. (aka League Of Outdoor Pursuits) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Little King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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P.B.S. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 |
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R.N.R S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stormbringer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wargasm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 636 total · 2/month |
| Shared By: | Chris Dawson on Jul 31, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property issues
Details
The West Bank / Wild West / Secret Crag has been problematic for years due to access concerns. There have been negative encounters with gun-toting landowners who have alleged that the entire mountain is on private property. Typical approaches involve brief crossing of railroad property which appears to be prohibited.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Exact demarcation of property boundaries are not always clear. When in doubt, be discrete or polite.
Do not park your vehicle near the railroad tracks near Plainview. It is a well-known irritant to Plainview residents.
Description
Stormbringer is located in "The Corridor" section of the East Ridge (refer to East Ridge description). It is the second bolted route from the right when facing the crag. Just to the left pulling over the low roof is The Scourge (.11d). First let me say that The Corridor is not an easy place to access. There is a long approach hike just to reach Mickey Mouse followed by a quite a bit more hiking and scrambling through the woods. Stormbringer heads up a nice looking face on fairly good rock. There was quite a bit of lichen on the thing though, and it seemed it hadn't seen an ascent in a while. The climbing is fairly sustained through the crux at the fourth bolt after which it eases considerably to the top. I found the crux to be very reachy (height dependent), and maybe a little stout. Felt like I must have been missing something, though I couldn't seem to discover what.
I didn't do any other routes here, so I can't say whether or not I'd recommend the place to anyone. I get the feeling that the climbing on the main wall is quite a bit better though...like comparing Eldo to Castlewood.
I didn't do any other routes here, so I can't say whether or not I'd recommend the place to anyone. I get the feeling that the climbing on the main wall is quite a bit better though...like comparing Eldo to Castlewood.
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