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Routes in East Ridge

L.O.O.P. (aka League Of Outdoor Pursuits) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Little King S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
P.B.S. S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
R.N.R S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stormbringer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wargasm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Type: Sport, 180 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Equipped- Unknown, FFA of 2nd pitch- Joe Mills and Taylor Roy
Page Views: 64 total · 1/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on Jan 4, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

Wargasm is listed as a fully bolted, two pitch, 5.12 open project in the new Flatirons guidebook. We didn't free the first pitch because it was so dirty, but we are claiming the FA of the harder second pitch.

Pitch 1 (5.11+?)- from a very nice alcove, climb solid but very licheny rock to a comforable ledge with a 2 bolt midway anchor. The crux of this pitch is getting past the second bolt. With a bit of scrubbing, this pitch will be worth climbing.

Pitch 2 (5.12b)- from the ledge, work up a slopey ramp and pull around the left side of the black arete. Small edges, pebbles, and delicate footwork get you to a jug on the face at mid-height. A thin crux on sidepulls gains bigger holds that lead to the anchor.

We did not scrub or clean these pitches so beware of loose rock. Also, it's very possible to hit the ledge if you fall trying to clip the second bolt of pitch 2. Hence the PG-13 rating. If this got cleaned and properly scrubbed, it could easily become a 3 or 4 star route - especially if done in one long pitch.

As always, be careful not to lower off the end of your rope getting off the 2nd pitch.

Since the history of this route is unclear, I will gladly fix and update the information if we are incorrect in claiming an FA of pitch 2.

Location

This is on the left end of the Corridor section of the East Ridge. Look for a black arete.

Protection

Bolts with a midway anchor and a top anchor.

Photos

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