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Early Access
Routes in Lost Flatiron
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Arete T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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North Face Left T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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North Face Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 160 ft (48 m) |
| GPS: | 40.0009, -105.3929 |
| FA: | ?? R. Rositer 1996 ??. FFA: T. Bubb, C. Parks 6/9/02 |
| Page Views: | 1,017 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jun 8, 2002 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
This route is fine climbing and is very Flatiron-esque, including its setting, position, movement and protection. With some good brushing it could be made into a very nice route. At present lichen is peppered on the hand and footholds, adding spice to the inherent runouts.
Rossiter's given 5.10c grade probably reflects difficulties associated with the lichens. I brushed the holds I used carefully with my fingers and hands before using them and felt that the grade is more like 5.10a. I've split the difference for this posting. It is also possible that we grade things differently or found slightly different solutions.
Gear certainly does not abound, and is had here and there. Expect 40-foot-plus runouts on moves as hard as 5.9 slab, and smaller runouts on a few 5.10 moves. This is not and will never be a well-protected lead.
To find this route, climb up to the face of the Lost Flatiron. It is hard to see while hiking and you will most likely come to the base of a shorter, and very mossy buttress directly below the real wall first.
Once there, skirt the bottom edge to the East, eventually coming to a grassy slope where you can move up to the side of the rock and see a short, but wide juniper tree (15' either dimension. There is a pine tree 15' to the right growing out of a crack in the rock. Climb up to the juniper from below, go to it's right side and under the branches to a reasonable belay just left of it's trunk. This is shaded and comfortable.
There will not be protection for t he leader for a while, so tie in to the tree and sandbag your partner into the lead- sending him/her left onto the arete and up to the top. The blunt feature is mostly edging and smearing.
On top the belay is best done from slung blocks, nuts and maybe cams. There is a tree back some way, but unless you have a 70m rope you'll fail to reach it.
Take your hiking shoes up to walk off in. The gully down is steep and soft and your shoes will be slick in the grasses and fill with dirt where there is no grass.
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