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Routes in Bear Creek Spire

North Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
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Type: Trad, 300 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 103 total · 1/month
Shared By: George Bell on Nov 5, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: 2018 Raptor Closure Lifted Details

Description

Don't let the rating on this route fool you into taking it too casually, this is a scary route to free solo, especially considering you have to go down it too. This route [may be] closed Feb 1 to Aug 1.

This route is on the right side of the northeast face, it reaches the summit ridge just south of the summit near a large pine tree. The route follows a crack/corner system that drops straight down from this pine tree. Start the route quite high up, only 150' or so below the saddle north of Bear Creek Spire, and traverse south (left) into the crack system. If you start lower down you will encounter 5.6 climbing.

The climb now consists of sections of dirt and trees alternating with friable rock covered by pine needles. The crux is a section of small roofs, consider carefully how you are going to downclimb this while going up. After you reach the big tree and ridge, there are still a few exciting exposed moves to reach the summit. I would have rated this route 5.4, but probably it was all the friable rock and dirt that was freaking me out.

Downclimb the route (or if you were smart and brought a rope, rappel the route from trees).

Protection

Standard rack with long slings for trees.

Photos

Brian C.
Longmont, CO
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
It appears that there has been a large rockfall in the area of this route as there is a massive scar on the gully up to the large tree. I have not been able to climb it yet and due to closure could not get close enough to tell if this actually affects the route. Anybody know anything about this? May 31, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.5
To answer the above - it is hard to say. The corner up to the large pine with the sling on it (which is unusable, but I was soloing anyway) is not too bad. beyond that - there are good and bad sections of rock. The slabs to the right side of the corner that reach the top are pretty friable and lichen-covered. At the very least, exercise caution, but you can climb it, even solo.
Just FYI - there are far better routes in the Flatirons. Those being almost any you could possibly pick. This was and still is a pile. Sep 6, 2014

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