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Routes in Owl Prow

Ground Zero S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Linking Logs S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Owl JuJu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Owl On The Prowl S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport
FA: Rick Leitner, 1998
Page Views: 1,329 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bryson Slothower on Feb 17, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This route is located on the Owl Prow, which is before, and on the left when approaching Surprising Crag. There is a tunnel blasted through the rock, and this route climbs a section of cliff that was blasted and therefore gets a "chipped" classification.

Start on the far right side of the crag, this is the last route on the right side of the tunnel. Sustained climbing with several mid-5.11 moves up overhanging rock leads to an anchor with two bolts....

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Photos

This is actually a good climb and to blacklist the route because it is on a dynamite scar seems questionable. If the first accentionists modifies the route, that is one thing. But if someone has the insight to turn a scar on the landscape into somthing good, enjoyed by many, and without further damage, I don't think we should chastise them. Apr 30, 2002
I'm not chastising anyone, that fact remains that it is altered, not in it's natural state and therefore "Chipped" by this sites standards. I think more of the routes at the Sport Park should be on the black list however. At least Owl on the Prowl has no drilled pockets!..... May 21, 2002
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
Actually, by the site standards, this is definitely not a chipped route. The "fundamental principle", i.e. the quote in bold on the "This is a modified route" page clearly states that it is the intent of the climber who puts up or climbs the route that makes a route "modified". May 21, 2002
Weather or not it was actually "chipped", I still enjoyed this climb. I didn't even use the dynamite scar to pull it off. It has a couple of really good moves and a lot of it is crimpy. I don't think that it is rated correctly. This was one of my first 5.11s and I pulled it with relative ease, which surprised me quite a bit. Chipped or not, I'll climb this one again. Sep 4, 2002
If this is modified because of a dynamite blast, then why isn't the sphinx crack considered modified. Sep 5, 2002
I was wavering between adding this as a chipped route or not and decided that it should be classified as such because it is at the Sport Park and several routes there are modified and I just wated to add my two cents worth that I think that is super lame. If the operators of this site want to change the route to "non-modified", I won't lose any sleep over it. After all compared to some off the routes up there the large dynamite scar seems subtle. My comment above should say "at least Ground Zero has no drilled pockets" I got the names mixed up. Many of the routes at this crag suffer from that awful fate. I do however commend the bolting efforts of many of the FA's at this crag. I was talking with someone recently at Little Eiger who was putting up a new route and he told me: "I'm putting the bolts really close together on this route for people like you. It looks like you could stroll up the route but it also looks like you could use a girlfriend (I was climbing with two dudes). Closely spaced bolts brings more ladies to the crags and thats something we all want to see."In this regard the sport park rules, I just wanted to say chipping SUCKS!!! With bolts so close why bring down the difficulty?By the way, I probably would have added Spinx Crack as a modified route. :) Sep 6, 2002
Legs Magillicutty   Durango
Gotta love having to make only 2 moves between each bolt. This was my first 11 lead. Does it still count if I fell/yelled take at every bolt but 2? hehe. Yes, I have no shame. The fact that I led this climbs proves that there is no way that this is 11c! Maybe 10d but not 11c. My name is Tracy Roach and I USED the dyno-scar! Fun climb. Aug 17, 2004
Peter J. Beyel
Glenwood Springs
5.11d
Peter J. Beyel   Glenwood Springs
5.11d
A crucial hold broke after the third bolt. Now makes pulling up to the 4th significantly harder. I'd say this line is now 11d/12a. May 12, 2013
Chris Archer
  5.12a
Chris Archer  
  5.12a
This route has gotten much harder since the crimp on the right wall of the corner disintegrated. This is now the crux. Jul 8, 2013
Dylan Lockard
  5.12a
Dylan Lockard  
  5.12a
A broken hold creates a difficult crux move between 3rd and 4th bolts. This feels like a 5.12 move, but the rest of the route feels like an upper level 5.11. Jul 4, 2018

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