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Routes in Hammerhead

East Ridge T 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b
Yodeling Moves T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,150 total, 37/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Dec 8, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is another great Flatiron classic. It is a little different than your standard, "easy" Flatiron route. Half way up the east ridge, you climb over the longest arch in Boulder. Try not to think too hard about what would happen if it breaks. The final pitch is airy, since it traverses the overhanging west face through some ledge systems. The rock is solid, except for a 10 foot section.

P1 & P2: Follow the east ridge for 400 feet. Stay within a few feet of the south edge to enjoy the exposure.

P3: Climb on top of a 6 foot boulder that is against the NW corner of the summit block. Traverse the ledge system moving up at the obvious points. The bucket holds appear as you climb to kept this at the 5.0 level.

Descent: Downclimb the last pitch or do an overhanging rappel off of the NW side of the summit block. Don't forget to Yodel....

Protection

SR.
As of February 2017, we left behind 20ft of static 10ish mm rope with a quicklink for rapping. Set up nicely, and it all worked well. Enjoy! Feb 21, 2017
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.0
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.0
The rap anchor is unlikely to be desirable for more than another season. Please consider taking up dark cord or webbing to back it up or replace it. Jan 31, 2017
Long Ranger
Boulder, Colorado
Long Ranger   Boulder, Colorado
The enormous bucket holds seemed much easier to spot on the downclimb, soloists.

Seems like an obvious variation could be to do a Yodeling Moves Direct: starting from the ground on the West side, just a little left of where you eventually traverse to, higher up. Large holds seem to be there, just not as many. It seemed more like 20 feet, rather than 100 feet at that point. No real pro, I doubt, but doesn't look harder than... 5.6? Oct 20, 2016
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
Beware of a large, loose block about halfway along the traverse.

The rappel is short, under 50 feet. Oct 27, 2015
Rick Blair
Denver
  5.0
Rick Blair   Denver
  5.0
The first 2 pitches were like an approach climb for the summit. After the start head out to the very edge for climbing about as exciting as 5.0 gets.

When I saw the final pitch it looked so improbable at easy 5th class, it has to be harder. Once you get on it, the holds just appear, you can literally "walk" across the traverse to the final moves. I would put this pitch at 4th class and one of the finest summits in the flatirons, a true classic! I protected the traverse with 3 bomber large finger to hand sized tricam placements.

The sum of this climb is much greater than its parts and can only be understood by doing it. Jul 20, 2012
Paul Weiss  
5.2
Climbed up to first flake. But here we angled north a bit and crossed over the gap, don't forget to look down. Belayed at a huge tree. From here climb a slab and then there is a cool crack with friction for the feet. Offers up a couple hand jams and then climb over towards the left through a gap and walk off. Obviously we should have stayed towards the left for Yodeling Moves..... but entertaining none the less. Not much pro and the crack move was harder than 5th class. A healthy solo alternative that leads to a walkoff, but no summit. Mar 15, 2004
Easily one of the best 4th class routes around. The climbing varies from fairly calm to keeping on your toes. Good fun all around, highly recomended. Mar 15, 2003
Great climb! This rock is easily accessed from the Royal Arch Trail if coming from the north: after the descent from Sentinel Pass, look for a large boulder that is propped up against the face of a rock (this rock is Two Move Rock), which is right next to the trail. just past this boulder, hike up about 60 feet to the base of Hammerhead--theres a nice belay seat against a tree. P1 goes up on mediocre rock, past a bunch of trees, to a flake on the south edge, which you can sling for belay. P2 goes over the beautiful arch (with superb exposure!) on impecable rock up to another flake for belay. the climbing is very easy here, but the exposure and ok pro keep you on your toes. incredible pitch!!!!! P3 goes as described--the summit and rap are worth the very short P3, which is great fun anyway! enjoy this beauty of a climb! May 5, 2002
Quite a heady route for a mere "F3". The last pitch heads straight right with the ground dropping away below - super exposed. Take your time and find the easiest way. If you're downclimbing, definitely take a moment and do what it takes to remember where to head down from the summit. Dec 13, 2001