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Routes in Digital Tower

Beta Sponge S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Beyond The Firetower S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
C++ T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Digital Stiumlation T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Fortran Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jesus H. Cranker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Middle Route, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
T-zilla, Rap Drilla S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Type: Trad, Sport
FA: Ernie Moskovics and Tod Anderson, 1997?
Page Views: 3,540 total, 18/month
Shared By: Tod Anderson on Nov 13, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Located 100 yards southwest of the firetower on the formation known as Digital Tower, this route either starts on the arete or in a crack to the left. This route is on the planar, south-facing wall of Digital Tower. If you start on the arete, step left at 50' unless you want to do the 12d arete. The route has two cruxes and a rather distracting view. Enjoy.

Protection

16 bolts if you start on the arete, cams to 2" if you follow the crack to the left.

Photos

michalm
Boulder, CO
 
michalm   Boulder, CO
 
This is the best route I have climbed at Devil's Head. The combination of superb, stunning views, exciting exposure, featured rock, and sustained, aesthetic movement make for a route that would be a classic anywhere.

However, I cannot praise the climbing on this line without simultaneously expressing my distaste for the style in which it was established, which is the same style that many of the routes at Devil's Head were established in. The absolutely absurd number of bolts that litter the face of this route (17 if doing the bolted arete start) and the apparent lack of consideration for clipping stances for some of these bolts seriously detracts from the enjoyment of climbing this route. It is hard not to skip at least a couple of the bolts when there is a bolt almost every move during the cruxy bits.

This overbolting tactic is not any safer than more sparse but tasteful bolting, it is no more convenient (who wants to clip a bolt mid-crux?), and it is certainly not very aesthetic. The bolts are in, however, and that cannot be undone. Maybe the DH crew will put a little more consideration into these matters when bolting another beautiful piece of rock in the future (if any more exist).

These matters aside, I am convinced that C++ would actually protect beautifully, except for the initial leftward traverse after the ledge, with all gear if using the crack start. A double or triple set of small to medium nuts and tiny to finger sized cams with singles to #2 Camalot should be more than sufficient. Perhaps one bolt on the traverse would be needed to adequately protect the moves pulling onto the face, but the rest of the route looks to me like perfect face and thin, discontinuous crack climbing protected by bomber small gear in excellent rock. If I come back to the area, I will bring along a rack heavier in the small stuff and try it for myself. Sep 11, 2017
I named this route after the programming language, but it turned into a double entendre when we graded it 11c. Back then, having put in the time to work out moves, it felt like mid-11 or so, but I'm not sure everyone stems out left onto the small, vertical ledge which sets up the crux statically. In any case, the consensus seems to be 12a, or at least that's the other half of the double entendre. Sep 22, 2016
Mark Rolofson
  5.12a
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12a
It has been a very long time since I climbed this route - September 2000. I was climbing quite hard when I did this route. I hung my way up it on the first run, then I redpointed it on the second run. I thought it was .12a when I did, and was shocked to see it graded .11c. Perhaps it's .11d. A truly brilliant & sustained route. Sep 18, 2016
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
  5.11c
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
  5.11c
.11c++, haha yes! Love the name, loved the route! For a single pitch sport route, this thing is pretty epic. Sustained upper headwall, awesome views - DH climbing at its best. Bring some long runners for the middle section to avoid rope drag. Sep 21, 2012
FA Ernie Moskovics and Tod Anderson, probably 1997. Story is, when Tod, Dave, and I first explored the East Valley of DH, we saw this line and I said, "it's the best thing in the draw". So, we TR'd it but did not link a key section on TR that day. Dave moved to Calgary, but Tzilla and I carried on, and the key was to stab and stem left for the setup to crimp the thin crack that leads up right through the crux. Tod insisted on adding a bolt on the flat wall going into the crux, so it may appear over-bolted in that section.

This is maybe the best route I was ever involved with installing and sending at DH, though it is short. Sep 14, 2012
Johny A
Aurora . CO
  5.11d
Johny A   Aurora . CO
  5.11d
WOW! Oct 29, 2009
Derek Lawrence
Bailey
 
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
 
Awesome route! Amazing postion! Felt hard for 11c to me - couldnt get clean - perhaps 5.11c++ ?? Oct 19, 2009
Excellent. Steeper than other climbs in the grade I've done at Devils Head. Great position, stone and a pumpy crux that can set you up for failure. Sep 9, 2007
Stellar! Jun 18, 2007