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Routes in Pigeon Rock

South Ridge T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c X
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 611 total, 3/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Aug 30, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

Don't fall! Climb the incredibly chossy South Ridge to a chossy summit, and rap using your partner as a counterweight off the other chossy side of the tower. Recommended only to bag the summit of this obscure spire.

Protection

No pro-worst rock in the garden so nothing would probably hold. There is also no gear on top-tie a rope to your partner, and toss the other end off the other side and do a single strand rap.

Photos

Vincent Morton
Colorado Springs,Colorado
Vincent Morton   Colorado Springs,Colorado
My partner and I climbed it a couple of days ago during one of our obscure route days. Don't bother with pro...it's not needed and as previously stated, it probably won't hold much of a fall anyway. There are no anchors up top, so the best way down is by simul-rapping. Or, just downclimb. Jun 2, 2007
It may be short, but it is one of the scariest climbs I have ever been on. There is pro, but I don't think any of it would hold a leader fall and contrary to the guide, there definitely are no anchors at the top. The only good way to belay from above is on the opposite summit side of the tower with some creative placements and your own body weight. Make sure your partner knows not to fall getting over there since the pendulum could easily rip both of you off the top. Not recommended. Nov 16, 2005