Type: Trad, Ice, 120 ft
FA: the Utes?
Page Views: 1,514 total · 7/month
Shared By: Charlie Nuttelman on Jan 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

5 Opinions

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Awesome climb, short grade 4-5 section.


Several screws, rock pro would be useful near the top.

Toprope Protection

Bomber tree with lots of webbing.


The climb faces almost directly south and thus is poorly formed or just "not in" for much of the winter - a cold snap in December or January is often the best bet for not-so-scary conditions but even then be prepared for a hollow topout - more than one person has punctured the tube and paid for it with a very cold shower. Dec 6, 2005
I climbed this in 2005ish when it was very thin.

Near the top, the thin ice broke away and there was a 3' by 1' hole in the tube. Getting lowered was not an option since the last good gear I had was at the top of the cone 40' below. Climbing up was scary with the very real potential of falling into the tube. There was no ice up top to top out on so I ripped off my gloves and threw them down to my belayer and rock climbed in the flowing water to get up.

Make sure the ice is in up top when you climb this. May 13, 2008
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
A great climb just 5 minutes from town. I had the chance to climb this a few days ago. Take a small cam or two or a few large stoppers for the top out. You will be glad that you did. Get on this thing quick because it may not last much longer. Feb 7, 2010