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Routes in The Red Rock

Always Leave a Generous Root Tip S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Baby Teeth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Bad Case of Gingervitus S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bloody Impaction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cavity Bones S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cuspidnator, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dry Socket S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face Plant T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Facial Fracture S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fractured Baby Tooth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Gum Cheese S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Latrogenic Pain S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liken Z' Planus S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark's Teeth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Third Molar Round-Up S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 2,588 total · 17/month
Shared By: Jake Richens on Sep 29, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Third from the left, shares anchors with bloody impaction.

Protection

Bolts to anchors

Photos

Zane Halvorsen
  5.8 PG13
Zane Halvorsen  
  5.8 PG13
The right anchor bolt is starting to loosen up. The entire connection point spins freely. Ended up choosing not to set an anchor for my wife and instead rappelled off. Sep 8, 2017
Adam Schmidt SLC
SLC,UT
  5.8-
Adam Schmidt SLC   SLC,UT
  5.8-
Can be worked from the face to the right, or from the crack to the left for an easier climb. If using the crack, feels more like a 5.6/5.7 Dec 16, 2016
Goat
Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Goat   Salt Lake City
  5.8+
Interesting start, essentially a walk up to the first 2 bolts, then you hop on the ledge and get moving up following the crack to the left. Stay to the left of the clips and you'll be fine, there are two big holds above the anchors that are not easily seen until you're on top of them. Apr 17, 2016
Scott H.
Sandy, UT
  5.8
Scott H.   Sandy, UT
  5.8
If using the anchors for Bloody Impaction,there's much less of an issue with rope drag when TRing this route. When leading this trad, theres placements for #4-1, then it gets a little thin for gear at the top, but that parts pretty easy. Nov 21, 2012
Nathan Fisher
  5.8
Nathan Fisher  
  5.8
No longer shares anchors with Bloody Impaction. Can be led safely trad, heavy on the cams, and a long runner. May 14, 2006

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