Type: Sport
FA: the dentist
Page Views: 1,658 total · 10/month
Shared By: Jake Richens on Sep 29, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

26 Opinions

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I found this to be more of a 5.9


bolts to anchor


Salt Lake City, UT
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
This climb was decent for the area.... Not 5.9. Maybe 5.8 more like 5.7....... Way better than the Cuspidnator! Oct 5, 2005
Jake Richens
Sl, ut
Jake Richens   Sl, ut
This climb is definitely a 5.8, and the crux is clipping and climbing past bolt 2 and 3, clipping the third bolt requires some vision and balls but the climbing eases up after you pass that point. the body position through 2 and 3 is inverted so don't let this climb fool you if your a new comer to climbing. I can see this climb being 5.7 if you climb a little off route and back step against chimney/block. It is a way better climb than the cuspidnator but does produce a significant amount of rope drag. Oct 6, 2005
Mark Dexheimer
Midvale, UT
Mark Dexheimer   Midvale, UT
The Crux of this route is at the beginning of the route. After you get past that it is about a 5.6 climb the rest of the way up. Awesome view once you get to the top though. Aug 10, 2010
Matthew Oliver
Salt Lake City
Matthew Oliver   Salt Lake City
The anchors for this route are about 10 feet to high over a good 5 or 6 foot shelf. It is murder on your rope if you try to top rope it. Honestly there are only about two fun moves at the crux, which is between the second and third bolt. If I did it again I would belay the second from the top and walk off, but I will probably just avoid it. It really isn't worth doing. Aug 13, 2010
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
The hanger is missing on the first bolt. I don't know how/why buts its gone. So if you look at the featured photo, expect to clip the second bolt as your first piece; which while easy, would suck horribly to fall before you clipped. Apr 4, 2013
Jeremy Noring
Salt Lake City, Utah
Jeremy Noring   Salt Lake City, Utah
Came here to say the same as paul w.; the first bolt is missing a hanger for some reason. It makes the blowing the "second" bolt really dangerous.

Also, there are some decent sized blocks (50-200 lbs?) between the third and fifth bolt that don't look very secure to me. There were a lot of people there so I didn't see if I they were very loose, but they'd easily kill someone if they fell. I'd exercise caution. Jul 20, 2014