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Routes in Lizard Rock

8nts in my p8nts TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Edge of Psychotic Normalcy S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Noon S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ninja S,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Old Dude Attitude S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Rain Maker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tommyknockers, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twelve O'Clock High T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Jacket T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: open project - Andrew Kornylak
Page Views: 1,306 total · 8/month
Shared By: Andrew Kornylak on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the first route you will encounter on the trail. It follows a shallow water-groove up a near-vertical wall. Some people agree that this is a beautiful, pure line, others proclaim it silly. Go see it for yourself. It is an open project, not for lack a strong attempts, and is likely one of the hardest sport lines on the mountain. The name refers to the type of climbing you will encounter. Ninjas are awesome and they rule.

Note: a large tree has fallen against the base of this route and needs to be cleared but no bolts were damaged. It did clear a small pine that used to hug the wall to the right, where another seam exists. The section past that has been toproped to halfway and may hold more potential. Have at it.

Protection [Suggest Change]

5 bolts + chain anchors. You can rap in to the anchors from a tree at the top of the cliff.

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Braxtron
...
Braxtron   ...
Facts:
1. Ninjas are mammals.
2. Ninjas fight ALL the time.
3. The purpose of the ninja is to flip out and kill people. Mar 3, 2008
Andrew Kornylak   GA
 
very. Let me know what you think Nov 12, 2009
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
This route is ridiculously hard, and now even harder as I busted off the positive undercling between bolts 1 and 2 today. May 21, 2011
Hey is this the huge slabby headwall thats listed in the guidebook as "vertical blank face". if not is there anything on that headwall? May 22, 2011
Hey Alex, if you don't see bolts, routes have not been done on it. Has anyone been able to climb this route? EFR May 23, 2011
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
EFR as far as I know no one has redpointed this yet. Aaron Mike and I both got on this in May and pretty much got shut down. Clipping the 2nd bolt is pretty hard now, might want to bring a stickclip for that (if you blow the extremely tenuous clip you are going to be hitting the ground).I was eventually able to free most of the moves individually besides the moves from bolts 2 to 3. To reduce the pain factor from repeated whips I ended up standing in a sling to clip the bolts over my head a lot. Jun 18, 2011
Nice Alex. Andy and another friend of mine have tried to convince me to get on this thing but I never have. Once I fail to onsight a sport route I do what ever to make working it easier. I have seen one strong climber stick clip each bolt and work the moves up to it. He was more afraid of falling than anything else but it sure was efficient. Good for you for getting on it. If you decide you want to work on the other face and need a drill or some advice, let me know. Jun 19, 2011
Andrew Kornylak   GA
 
Great to see some traffic on this thing. Alex: bummer about the underclings.

Its been tried by a bunch of folks including Eric Scully, Greg Varela, and Matt Birch (who came the closest to rp but slipped on wet rock near the top "ninja" crux as it started drizzling). Moves all go, but it was way harder to link them than I expected. Feb 10, 2012
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
Got on this today really briefly before the sun peaked over the wall. I didn't spend much time on it and pulled through a few of the moves, so I can't really give a complete "report" on it, but here's some thoughts to (maybe) revive some interest:

From bolt 2 to 3 is real hard (didn't figure it out), but definitely feels more probable than some of the hard slabs I've been on (in my mind, this route qualifies as a slab - barely).

The moves before and after 2-3 are wild, and left me pleasantly perplexed at the fact that they worked.

I think that if a really strong slab climber (I'm talking to you, EFR) got on it they'd call it 12+.

Get your dancing shoes, your faith in sticky rubber and your creativity and go grab a long-awaited fa ;) May 20, 2018

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