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Routes in Lizard Rock

8nts in my p8nts TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
High Noon S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Ninja S,TR 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Old Dude Attitude S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b R
Tommyknockers, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Twelve O'Clock High T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Unknown T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Yellow Jacket T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

Upper-mountain grey stuff, Sport and trad, the best lines here are a couple cracks and a sick-hard slab, but other than that, not much else. Short hike but great camp spots nearby. Always in the shade. There is access to the top of the cliff.

Getting There

Halfway up the ML Highway past Goosehead, Park at the left-hand pullout across from the Matterhorn boulders. Head into the woods, following the left-trending trail. You will climb steeply towards the highest point, then skirt the summit to the base of the cliff on a slippery pine-needle trail. As of the Aspen Fire Closures there was a huge downed tree at the first route that needs to be cleared.

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Photos

mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
This formation is completely out of sight until you have passed it. The first view of it you get is from South Willow Canyon Rd near Rose Canyon Lake. From this vantage point and beyond, it looks kind of like a sleeping iguana (or in my opinion, a tortoise shell). It's fun to scramble up on but for my money, the climbing isn't great here. May 19, 2014
dah3586
Tucson, AZ
dah3586   Tucson, AZ
Lizard rock - an absolute gem. If you are in Tucson and climbing this place is an absolute must. Bomber rock, tiny holds, run-out bolts, super solid placements,... unfortunately nearly no anchors. Tons of big names in Tucson have had a hand in the development of this place. About the only sub par aspect of this place is the views.

Only statements #3 and #4 above are correct. However, if you're interested in checking this place out the following photos for Twelve O'Clock High (5.10+R) [unsure if its this one or High Noon (5.9+X), ref SQII] may deceive you into thinking it's totally rad.

Nov 1, 2012

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