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Routes in Upper Quarry

All You Can Eat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Planet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Fried T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fruity Pebbles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lumpy Gravy S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: David Clay
Page Views: 1,405 total, 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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This route is a bolted route close to the right end of the Second Quarry, and is located just left of a small cave with the bolts following just above the cave, and then just left and over a 6' roof above. This is on the rock that is second from the right of the end of the second quarry.

Climb up some odd almost sandstone like features to a reachy move after the third bolt. Climb up two more bolts, and the route follows the bolts into a traverse crux move that takes you out and over the lip of the roof. From here, climbing is straightforward yet sustained on excellent crystal pinches that climb up on the right side of the arete. The last few bolts are probably 30 feet of sustained low end 5.10 climbing, so take a rest after the crux!


10 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring a couple of slings for the 5th, 6th and 7th bolts to reduce rop drag, which can be bad near the top.


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dean fleming
sonora ca
dean fleming   sonora ca
the first ascent was done by
David Clay
great route and well done. Mar 8, 2006
I give this a grade of 10d due to reachy and awkward move at the 4th bolt. Like Debbie says above if your shoter than 6ft you'll have a classic and delicate boulder move from a good stance( ok that's not what she said)Wierd AND Cool. And the move at the roof is sooo goood. Enjoy!! Sep 8, 2004
Awesome climb. I used only short draws and had no problem with rope drag. There is a bonus crux for short people (_ 5'8?) at about the 4th bolt.

The climb felt much harder than Prime Rib, which is supposed to be only one grade lower. Jul 5, 2004