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Routes in Upper Quarry

All You Can Eat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crystal Planet S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Deep Fried T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fruity Pebbles S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Lumpy Gravy S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Prime Rib S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 152 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is located in the middle of the Second Quarry, on the overhanging orange face that faces more Southwest than most of the quarry. This is accross from a interesting looking cave that sits about 30 feet off the ground. There are three bolted routes on this face, and this is the rightmost one.

Climb up the chimney about 3 feet and then cut over to the left to the orange wall in the deep 4" crack. Climb up this crack to a slab section, where a balancy move will put you onto an arete, and also at the first bolt. Follow this arete up to face climbing, which will get you up on a ledge to the left, where the route runs into Power Within (5.11d). Instead of clipping the bolt on the left side of the ledge, avoid this temptation and make a reachy move up to the right, and clipping the last bolt.

The last section is runout, but it's easy.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. A wide 3-5" piece can help protect the initial move onto the arete. Top anchor is shared with Power Within (5.11d).

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whipp
  5.11b
whipp  
  5.11b
This a fantastic route that requires you keep your cool up high. Don't fall when clipping or you're heading for a 20 footer into the chasm...Stay on target, stay on target... Good stuff.Also make sure you don't kick any of the loose rocks on your belayer at the very beginning of the climb;before placing the #3.5 Camalot. Nov 6, 2004