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Routes in Dock Rock

Impish T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Look See T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad
FA: Layton Kor
Page Views: 2,144 total, 11/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Mar 17, 2002
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Impish climbs the right skyline of Dock Rock as seen from the parking lot. The route wanders and is mostly not very exposed, so it is a good route to solo. Climb broken rock up to a large ledge system. Traverse right and up past a two bolt anchor - I have no idea what that is for. Wind around the back side of the formation and up to the summit ridge. There are several sets of rap anchors on top, and you can just barely make it down with one 60 meter rope from the rightmost anchors.

Protection

Light rack of cams should protect it. Bring lots of slings or you may have terrible rope drag. Also, you may want some webbing and descending rings to replace the rap anchor-I was nervous rapping what was there.

Photos

Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Mark E Dixon   Sprezzatura, Someday
I only saw two sets of anchors on the summit ridge today (10/14/13).
When you first arrive on the ridge there are two drilled angles and a new bolt set up with a rapid link and a ring providing a single rappel to the ground. We used a 70 meter rope and had some rope to spare.
There is a double bolt anchor partway down the face that could be used if you are climbing with a 30 meter rope for some bizarre reason.
Farther along the ridge there are two bolts placed near each other at the point where the ridge rises just a bit. One is newish, the other old and uninspiring. Neither is set up for a rap, but they are useful if you rope up for the ridge traverse.
I didn't see any other anchors on the ridge and didn't really see any prospects for gear. There is a thread which could be utilized, but since I could wiggle the whole formation back and forth with one hand, I skipped it. Oct 15, 2013