Avg: 2.8 from 6 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||James Berrry 1991|
|Page Views:||623 total · 3/month|
|Shared By:||Dan Dewell on Jun 9, 2003|
|Admins:||Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
Crawl up the small crimpers and awkward balancy moves to a small roof. After the roof the climb backs of to 5.9-5.10 climbing. But until after the fifth bolt the climb is on you with the smallest crimper I've ever felt on a 5.11--and you'll use it to clip! You don't have to clip off of, but it makes the climb that much more interesting.
When I climbed this on 06/10/2003, I broke off THREE holds, and one of them is a crucial left hand after the fourth bolt. I'm not sure if this bumps the grade up a letter, but it's a smaller hold now (three or four fingers, half pad to two fingers, half pad) at the start of a small sequence to clip the fifth bolt.
Despite the sometimes unreliable nature of this rock, "Planet Claire" is worth doing any time you are in the Monster/Marker Area, in my opinion.