Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Vernon Phinney-1989 Ground Up
Page Views: 6,620 total · 31/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Aug 31, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

105 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


Follow the rock down & around to the left. As the ground starts rising a water chute runs up the rock on the right.

Climb up the chute with some big crystals to help you out, clipping bolts as you find them. Once you get on 'top' the bolts end and you get to scramble on easy rock to the summit block. Stand up & clip the bolt on the summit block, pull the final move(s) to the summit and anchors.

Note that the route is rather 'runout' and exposed getting to the last bolt, even though it's probably only 4th class. Not your typical sport climb.

From the top anchors, rap down the face that holds Pelican's Dyke and Xenophenia. If you're so inclined, set up a TR before coming down...


5 draws and something for the 2 bolt anchor on top.

Does the rap require a 60m?
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
The runout 4th class bit is very exposed, but can be protected with stoppers if I remember correctly. The first move after clipping the last bolt is *much* harder than the rest of the climb.

This is one of the best routes at Rushmore. Jun 28, 2002
Great climb! The water chute is fun, and the flakes near the top are interesting. I think I slung a flake or two. The move above the last bolt was, for me, the crux. It is a very fun, different type of climb. Enjoy! Oct 1, 2002
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
I led this climb on two different trips this year. It's great fun and I try to lead it every year. You can protect yourself and your second by slinging a couple of horns on the runout arete before reaching the summit block. I was very happy to see a new 3/4 bolt protecting the move up the summit block, which is very committing and exposed. Jul 10, 2003
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
Yes, use at least 60m rope Mar 13, 2004
I think this climbi is harder than 5.7 I'd bring a set of stoppers with me and some trad draws to avoid rope drag. The crux is the move at the last bolt. very fun climb!!! Aug 13, 2006
This climb is spectacular. The crux is really fun but, messes with you a little bit the first time you climb it because you are standing on a nice pedistal then you have to go into the face. Well worth the time every time you visit rushmore. Aug 16, 2007
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
I led the route this year on 9/29 and found a new bolt/rap anchor system has been placed just below the actual summit of the climb. I and my second rapped using only a 165 foot rope, but we had to traverse to the right as you face the ground and downclimb the last few feet of the trough. Oct 1, 2008
Can this route be cleaned on rappel or it needs to be seconded? Aug 12, 2016
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
a little late but this route is best followed. it takes a hard right hand traverse at the top and would be very difficult and unsafe to clean on the way down. Aug 15, 2016
Tim Kessel
Fort Collins
Tim Kessel   Fort Collins
Very cool route, bolts are spaced very nicely, makes for a pretty safe lead but still gets the blood going. Definitely throw some nuts in the traverse section is someone is following, would be a nasty fall. Oct 15, 2018