Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Borneo

Bolts for Bobs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bushwhacker S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pelican's Dike Original S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Pelican's Dike-ination S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Solitaire S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spinal Tap S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brent Kertzman-2002
Page Views: 2,371 total · 12/month
Shared By: Brad Boner on Dec 31, 2001 with updates from Carl Schaefer
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


67 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This the major dyke that is located in the middle of the E face.

Protection

11 bolts lead to a chain anchor

Photos

Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD
Can anyone provide me with route info about the bolts directly to climber's left of Pelican's Dyke? They seem to be recently placed and lead to nowhere? ThanksAndrew Apr 24, 2005
The climbing on the newer version (straight up the dyke) is actually quite fine. Be advised to take a longer sling or quick draw for the bolt just above the crux bulge. What was the 1st ascent party thinking about by bolting the line slightly left on the bottom section? There are now at least 12 bolts to clip. Shares anchors with Solitaire so beware if someone is climbing that route. Morning sun; afternoon shade. Sep 19, 2005
It appears as though there are 3 bolted routes on the face of Pelican's Dyke. I understand from the comments that one is the original climb and one is a newer re-bolt. What is the 3rd one?

Thanks May 29, 2008
S. Stember
St. Paul, MN
 
S. Stember   St. Paul, MN
 
Does Pelican's Dike share anchors with solitaire? The conversations above were not clear to me what was what. Sep 8, 2008
Sevve what's up?

To answer a few questions:

1. Pelican dyke has an anchor at the top of the formation which you can see from the ground. The route is a bit contrived as it is quite easy to step left onto solitaire for the last moves, avoiding what may be the crux.

2.The route left of the two 'pelican dyke boltlines', which follows a smaller dike up and left until it runs out, is quite fun and feels ~ .11b or so. I haven't climbed at Rushmore much so don't take too much stock in my rating. Definitely a notch harder than 'the right pelican dyke boltline', but half as long with a very short crux section

Alex Oct 4, 2009
Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
Caleb Hansen   Rapid City
The line farthest left, up the angling dyke is 'spinal tap'. 11b seems right. FUN CLIMB. Oct 29, 2009
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD
Caleb,
are you sure it is spinal tap and not They Came from MN??? where did you get your info and do you know FA??
thanks,
ab Dec 10, 2009
Caleb Hansen
Rapid City
Caleb Hansen   Rapid City
Andrew,
Spinal tap was just hear say from a rawhide resident, FAs were out of MN i heard, but maybe spinal tap is just a local given name. More confusion for you sir... see soon. Dec 13, 2009
  • *Bolt Pulled** the second to last bolt no longer exists on this route.
May 19, 2018
2nd to last bolt was missing a hanger. This was replaced and a new anchor installed on top
7-9-18 Jul 9, 2018

More About Pelican's Dike-ination

Printer-Friendly