The technical crux of the route, pic by Vitaliy Musiyenko

All Locations > Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Juniper Canyon > Rainbow Wall > Original Route (5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a)

The technical crux of the route, pic by Vitaliy Musiyenko

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The Original Route

The Original Route Ringtail(super squirrel)

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Tanner James

Jan 22, 2024

“The technical crux of the route, pic by Vitaliy Musiyenko”

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Nearby Photos

Leah Sandvoss solving the crux of P11 (11d) on Rainbow Wall (Original Route). Photo by Andre Kiryanov

A deer got caught up in the fixed lines on the approach slabs. When we were Batmaning up, this carcass was supporting our weight. If the bones had snapped, we would have shockloaded the anchor...

Joe Herbst on pitch 13, first ascent of the Rainbow Wall (1973).

Last pitch<br>
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Photo: Tyler Casey

Leah Sandvoss sending P3 (11d) on Rainbow Wall (Original Route). Photo by Andre Kiryanov

Mar 16, 2019, all the snow on the bivy ledge

Luke in the goods on pitch 12.

Whitney Clark tip-toeing up the crux pitch of the Original Route on the Rainbow Wall.

Mitch Musci and Greg Jackson wake up to perfect conditions on the luxurious Rainbow Ledge, top of pitch 9.

One of the lower pitches...not sure which.<br>
Ben williams stylin' it.

Reaching for the much needed belay "ledge" in the Red Dihedrals.

A topo for the upper pitches of the Original Route and Rainbow Country on the Rainbow Wall. 70m Rap beta included.

A Climber named joe on the Red Dihedral

Topo for Rainbow Wall, Original Route

Vegas lights from the bivi at the base

Josie McKee following P13

Yo! I know sleeping on concrete for four hours before a 14pitch makes you tired. Get some good sleep y'all.

You'll never guess what this pitch is called.. pic by Vitaliy Musiyenko

Heading up the initial approach slabs via the Batman rope

Trusty Rustys and a homemade angle aluminum hanger

The Original Route

The technical crux of the route, pic by Vitaliy Musiyenko

The Original Route Ringtail(super squirrel)

Scotty finishing up probably the hardest pitch on the route, either that or i was tired after leading the hard stuff hahaha

Weeeee!!!

OG Trusty Rusty star Dryvin

yehaw!

The second Red Dihedral Pitch.

Buster using a stick clip made from a 320cm avalanche probe to clip the glue-in on pitch 5. He is clipped in short to the pecker and this move required his max reach to clip the bolt. Taken 10/28/25. I trundled the large block with an X while descending.

CAREFUL WITH FIXED LINES. This rope was sawed through and only hanging on by a piece of sheath. It held for multiple ppl that day, but it just took a quick hard pull to break it. The easiest way up w/out the rope is to the left of the water streak/groove.

I fits I sits

Sewing up the upper pitches. Takes good gear in addition to the bolts.

View of the section in question from hanging off of the bomber glue in above it. Belay, very bad cam, beak, then tiny nut over the span of 30 feet..

Guy on the second red dihedral pitch

The crux of the "second" pitch. (Run the 5.6 first pitch and the 5.12 second pitch together.)

Exiting the "cave belay" on the last pitch.

A topo for the lower pitches of the Original Route and Rainbow Country on the Rainbow Wall.

Kyle heading up the middle 10c pitch

Taylor rigging the bolted anchors at the top of the OG route. Photo taken from the tree anchor at the top of pitch 14, it took us an embarrassing amount of time to find the bolted anchors.

Just below the awesome pitch 5 roof!

A profound feeling at the top

Mike linking pitches 4 and 5.

Mike linking pitches 1 and 2.

Final .11 pitch. Red Dihedral below!<br>
Photo by Derek Schad

Tacky slab - keep on boogeyin'

The third pitch. 5.11b

The Original Route

Leading up Pitch 12 the final hard pitch in the Red Dihedral! Exiting the steepness to where the grade eases to the anchor

Party wall! Stephen and Vitaliy following the goods

In the upper dihedrals

Looking down from the top of the 11b roof pitch after linking 3 and 4. I had a blast on this!
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This was a bit longer than it looked from below, but a fun way to do it if you've got enough slings.

Last 5.12 pitch

Phil happy as can be

Cool view for our first night on a ledge

Cruising up the lower corners

Josie McKee on of the lower dihedral pitches (3? 4?)

In the second to last pitch

Darren leading the second Red Dihedral pitch. photo by Mike

Leading up one of the many 5.11 pitches low on the route.

Mike leading the 1st Red Dihedral pitch.

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