When does “lighter gear” actually become less efficient?
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I see a lot of focus on reducing weight in climbing gear, but I think there is a point where lighter is not always better. For example, thinner ropes, smaller carabiners, and minimal harness setups all save weight. But at the same time, they can reduce handling comfort, durability, and sometimes even efficiency during use. A thinner rope may save grams, but can be harder to manage, especially with gloves or when tired. Smaller gear can also be harder to clip quickly, which matters more than weight in some situations. https://omegle.site/ So my question is: At what point does weight reduction start to negatively affect overall performance? https://bazoocam.top/ I am not talking about safety limits, but more about practical efficiency during real climbing. Do you prefer slightly heavier gear that is easier to use, or do you prioritize minimal weight even if handling becomes worse? |
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Are you a bot? If so, lighter gear is better because it allows us to use smaller jetpacks with less rocket fuel for approaching alpine objectives. |
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When the weight goes negative, bad things start to happen, like falling UP, unexpectedly. |
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I was working on Heart of Darkness at Jtree a few months back and at the time, all of my gear had CAMP nano 22s as my racking biners. Three separate times I fumbled clipping the rope to the carabiner because the damn things are so small and easily fell right into the crack before I could clip it. My buddy astutely called this out to me and I swapped the nanos out for bigger options and immediately reduced the amount of BS'ing involved when clipping stuff on a hard lead. So yeah, that's my example. Small carabiners make sense for multi pitch and alpine, but when it's try hard single pitch stuff I'll swap them for bigger carabiners (photons in this case). |
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Sometimes the tradeoff affects performance, or comfort of use (harness), sometimes it's only a matter of cost / wear, so everyone will have a different opinion, and value things differently. For me, thin rope = yes, 8mm dyneema slings = yes, light harness = yes for long alpine routes, super small carabiners = nope hate those. |
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This is a bot. Don't feed the bot. |
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A bot with an intelligent question? |
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Eric Craigwrote: The more questions we answer the better they get |




