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Prep for astroman

Original Post
Bear Miller · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 15

Hey all, been reading a lot about astroman and am getting super stoked to try it next time i’m in the valley (hopefully summer 2026). Been reading up on a bunch of routes to climb in Yosemite to prepare one to climb astroman, but as i’m in Florida, climbing those are out of the picture until i’m actually there. I was hoping anyone that climbs in the southeast (alabama, tennessee, SC/NC) has any specific route recommendations that will prepare me for that style of climbing. I know its very specific (the harding slot) to valley climbing but just trying to get anything remotely close. Usually climb trad at t-wall for reference and can can currently onsight the 5.10’s there, and onsight 11d on sport regardless of style. I know this is super specific, but any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Where's Walden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 289

Climb the splitters.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

South facing hard route in the summer in the Valley? You’re nuts. 

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50
Marc801 Cwrote:

 You’re nuts. 

he is from Florida…

Rob Dillon · · Tamarisk Clearing · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 726

North side of looking glass

Patrick Heddins · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,075

What Rob said. Twall might even be harmful to your Yosemite training aspirations, because you learn you can get away with a lot by just using your arms. You’ll never get away with anything trying to use your arms in Yosemite. Spend all your days climbing the cracks of the north side of looking glass and also the cereal buttress at rumbling bald. Someone else will have to chime in if they know about any squeezer chimneys in the SE worth seeking out. 

Bear Miller · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 15
Marc801 Cwrote:

South facing hard route in the summer in the Valley? You’re nuts. 

What im really scared of is the mosquitos!!

Bear Miller · · Jacksonville, FL · Joined Dec 2023 · Points: 15
Patrick Heddinswrote:

What Rob said. Twall might even be harmful to your Yosemite training aspirations, because you learn you can get away with a lot by just using your arms. You’ll never get away with anything trying to use your arms in Yosemite. Spend all your days climbing the cracks of the north side of looking glass and also the cereal buttress at rumbling bald. Someone else will have to chime in if they know about any squeezer chimneys in the SE worth seeking out. 

I’ll start aiming to climb on some granite, ive been wanting to get up to the looking glass for a while!

Salamanizer Ski · · Off the Grid… · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 20,944
Bear Millerwrote:

I know its very specific (the harding slot) to valley climbing but just trying to get anything remotely close. 

It’s not very specific at all. Astroman is all over the place in terms of styles. Just get some mileage in climbing on gear. Climb everything, 5.6, 5.11, cracks, offwidths, sport, whatever. Turn no routes down. Hit a crag and start on the left, then move to the right. EVERYTHING! … and you’ll be fine. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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