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Question about flat spot on rope

Original Post
Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,799

I feel really bad. I’ve been climbing for a long time so one of the gym guys last night asked me what I thought about his rope. He had an 8.9 Black diamond rope and it had multiple flat spots. He had taken many falls on the rope in the gym exclusively. He asked me if I thought he should retire the rope. I was able to pinch the ropes so flat that I was positive that the strands were compromised inside. He also was thinking the same thing.

 He went and cut the rope sheath open to check since he was curious. All of the interior strands were intact. All of the interior strands were laying parallel to each other, but I assumed that when the rope was made, that they would twist them together in a helix pattern or something.
I know it’s a skinny rope and that they would feel flatter than normal ropes, but I feel bad for giving my incorrect “educated” opinion that it was probably shot.
How flat should a rope of that diameter get? And how would you ever know if the strands were compromised inside? Do you think I gave bad advice? Do you think I should consider getting him a new rope since I gave bad advice? 

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Don't ask the forum. Ask edelrid. 

https://youtu.be/Suo9aZODxqo?si=mxKXUWqh2yCNcp1i

But yeah, probably didn't need to retire the rope. 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Maybe there is another definition of “core shot” out there, but I’m pretty sure it is a term referring to when the core strands are visible through the sheath. That didn’t seem to be the issue with your friend’s rope.
Whatever. If I had a rope that handled that way (multiple super flat spots), I’d replace it immediately just for peace of mind if nothing else. I don’t want any lingering doubts haunting my mind when it comes to my rope.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,799

(I revised my original comment to correct that it was flat spots and not a core shot) That video was great. Thanks. I intuitively did exactly what he described. And the rope was definitely compromised in parts. However, with a rope as skinny as an 8.9 I know there’s less tolerance between making a good decision and a bad decision. 

Random Climber · · Front Range · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 4

Ropes don’t break from having a flat spot. The worst that could happen is a slightly harder catch.

If you don’t feel comfortable climbing on it, retire it, but a flat spot doesn’t mean anything other than the core strands have shifted. 

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,799

damn, it seems I gave him bad advice. I think I owe him a rope. Anyone got a 40meter 8.9 for sale? :)

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Random Climberwrote:

Ropes don’t break from having a flat spot. The worst that could happen is a slightly harder catch.

If you don’t feel comfortable climbing on it, retire it, but a flat spot doesn’t mean anything other than the core strands have shifted. 

Didn’t HowNot2 do some testing on something like this? Or maybe it was HardIsEasy? I remember videos that tested ropes with exposed core threads. It was impressive how much they held up. Ropes are pretty damn strong and hold up remarkably well even when old and battered it seems… unless, of course, your rope is the one exception. For this reason, when doubts creep into my mind, I replace my rope.

Way BITD, had a buddy take an 80-foot factor 2 fall on our 11mm Edelrid… the meter or two of rope that went through the Sticht plate to stop his fall flattened the rope pretty good. Even though the rope recovered its shape and was probably ok to climb on (at least for safer climbs and TR), we retired it anyway for peace of mind.

Peace of mind = What you want on the sharp end when you are 30 feet out from your last piece.

Just my two centims.

Random Climber · · Front Range · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 4

There’s never been a case, to my knowledge, of a rope breaking due to a fall. Cut, abraded, dissolved- yes. But just an old rope snapping because someone fell on it has never happened. (I recently retired a 9.2mm line I’d been using regularly for 17 years- it was still completely fine catching whips, it just got to be silly having a rope that old).

That said, peace of mind is worth its weight in gold. Retire it the moment you start thinking about whether any gear is safe to climb on.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,799

Since I gave him the incorrect advice of retiring the rope instead of telling him to make his own decision, I feel responsible. I just purchased him a new 8.9 to replace his. I remember what it was like being a college student when buying a rope was a big expense. I’ll keep my big mouth shut from now on. 

Brad Johnson · · Charlotte, NC · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

Good on you, but he was an adult that made a decision.  I don't think you have any responsiblity in replacing the rope.  However, I do remember the days when $100 was a game changer. Way to go! 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0

Very nice of you, Jon. Well done!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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