Mountain Project Logo

Trango Quantum vs Camp Nano 22

Original Post
Matt F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2025 · Points: 0

All my alpine draws are Mammut Moses that I have used for several years, took several years off trad, and am getting back into it. Checking out modern options for racking biners and ran across this report Mammut Moses Nose Hooking. I have observed this issue with mine using 8mm slings as well. So I am looking for new options. 

I have a few Camp Nano 22, which a I think are a good option for racking. I wouldn't mind something with a little more gate open for alpine draws. The Trango Quantum looks like it might be an okay option based on specs, but I can't find a single review of it. Has anyone used these? Trango Quantum

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

The most important near universal metric for how well a biner handles is gate opening, the nano 22 has 5mm more gate open than the trango. This isn't always the case but it's a very strong indicator at almost 25% larger gate opening I'd be very surprised if it was a better handling biner than the nano 22.

To others reading this. 

If you have a rocky talkie, they use a trango quantum so you can provide some input. 

Josh S · · Brooklyn, NY / Gunks · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 5

Just my opinion, but the right answer is the DMM Chimera. Swapped from nanos a few years ago because nose hooking + sticky gates are so annoying and couldn't be happier.

Lake · · Sea to Sky · Joined Mar 2024 · Points: 0

I've used both. Trango quantum is so tiny that it feels more like an accessory carabiner than something you'd want to be clipping your rope into during a lead. Camp nanos are not quite as small, but still feel very useable for racking cams, alpines, etc. 

I prefer Camp Photons on the rope end of the alpine. Big enough gate opening that I don't worry about snagging, and they're pretty light

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
Josh Swrote:

Just my opinion, but the right answer is the DMM Chimera. Swapped from nanos a few years ago because nose hooking + sticky gates are so annoying and couldn't be happier.

I'm anti chimera, I find them to handle much worse than the nano and the nose hook to be a total non issue. I can only remember a handful of times I have ever gotten a nose hooked on anything. 

Matt F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2025 · Points: 0

Trango marketing says that it has the widest gate among ultralight carabiners. I see now that it is VERY small at 9mm shorter than a Camp Nano 22. 

Nano 22

Matt F · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2025 · Points: 0
that guy named sebwrote:

I'm anti chimera, I find them to handle much worse than the nano and the nose hook to be a total non issue. I can only remember a handful of times I have ever gotten a nose hooked on anything. 

The nose on the Nano doesn't seem like much of an issue. I never really have a problem catching the nose either racking or clipping in trad, so I don't really feel the need for bulky hooded nose. 

What I do care about is that skinny webbing doesn't hang on the nose with the gate closed: 

Luke Stefurak · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,860

I feel like the camp nano is the standard for light biners. Over the years camp has updated the gate so that it has a firm close, and the shape/size is reasonable enough.

I have a few of the quantums, and didn't find them to be anything special. As noted the gate open is smaller. They do feel like a nice carabiner since they are less flimsy than a nano, but I wouldn't get any more. 

I do like the Chimera and DMM makes great quality gear. I do believe these have been replaced by the Aether which is supposed to be 2-3g lighter at 28g.  Curious, the Phantom was originally marketed at 26g, although the DMM site now shows it at 28g... 

If you are going small, why not just go to 19g biners from Edelrid...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Trango Quantum vs Camp Nano 22"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.