Val Di Mello, IT in August?

I'm planning a 3 week trip to northern Italy / Southern Switzerland and was planning on spending the first week of August in Val di Mello. I've read various accounts of it possibly being too warm, as most of the routes in the lower part of the valley are sunny. Any suggestions for shaded routes, possibly at higher elevations? We will have a car so driving a decent distance will be fine. Day trips prefered but bivying or huts are fine too. Our grade range is 5c to 7a.

We do plan to go to Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo at some point but I read that it may be best for climbing to go there from the Swiss side. Is this correct?

For guidebooks, I read that the guide Solo Granito may be the best for higher elevation, multipitch trad? Any other useful guidebook suggestions?

Are half ropes prefered for granite in the area or is a single rope and tag line okay? I climbed in the Dolomites a few years ago and half ropes were definitely required but maybe the granite is more friendly for moving fast with a single rope?

We climbed in Val di Mello in early August and it didn't seem too hot for me (and I don't like hot).  Could be...depending I guess.  Seems like most of even the upper routes have a south to southeast aspect so escaping the sun might be hard if it is hot.

The areas accessed from Switzerland (and in Switzerland) have some northern aspects if you find the weather too warm in the sun in the Val di Mello.  As well, most of the terrain is 1000m higher too.  Albigna and Sciora would be options and like the approaches for Piz Badile are best accessed from Switzerland.  If you're planning a longish day car-to-car, paying the fee to drive up from Bondo to the upper parking lot in your car will save some wear and tear.  Albigna has tram access too instead of a much longer (for me!  Ha ha) hiking trail.  The areas are littered with mountain huts for lodging if you want.  We based out of Chiavenna which was nice but made for longer driving.  Gobs of climbing around town as well and a bit cheaper than basing out of Switzerland.

I know they've had significant rockfall issues in the area of Piz Cengalo in the past so might be prudent to check on that prior to launch.  The hut guys would know for sure.

For ropes, really depends on your experience and preference.  I got a rope stuck on a long rappel line off a route in Sciora and was glad I could lead back up on our dynamic twin/double as a single (instead of a skinny static pull cord).  Would depend on the egress for the route you pick as some have minimal double rope rappels if you top out.  Some don't though too.

I have an older edition of Solo Granito and its "ok".  Really like the Filidor Schweiz Plaisir (and Extrem Sud if that's your grade range) editions.  They have a new edition for Sud and I think volume 1 covers the area you're interested in.  There's a number of cragging options in the books too for "rest" days or as options if you're dodging bad weather.

Schweiz Plaisir Sud volume 1

Out of print, but the older Schweiz Plaisir Selection has a version with some English.  

Have a great trip and let us know how it goes!

Brian in SLCwrote:

The areas accessed from Switzerland (and in Switzerland) have some northern aspects if you find the weather too warm in the sun in the Val di Mello.  As well, most of the terrain is 1000m higher too.  Albigna and Sciora would be options and like the approaches for Piz Badile are best accessed from Switzerland.  If you're planning a longish day car-to-car, paying the fee to drive up from Bondo to the upper parking lot in your car will save some wear and tear.  Albigna has tram access too instead of a much longer (for me!  Ha ha) hiking trail.  The areas are littered with mountain huts for lodging if you want.  We based out of Chiavenna which was nice but made for longer driving.  Gobs of climbing around town as well and a bit cheaper than basing out of Switzerland.

I know they've had significant rockfall issues in the area of Piz Cengalo in the past so might be prudent to check on that prior to launch.  The hut guys would know for sure.

Have a great trip and let us know how it goes!

Thanks Brian! We were thinking of trying to base out of Italy as well (for cost reasons) and driving to Switzerland for the high elevation climbing. The Albigna, Sciora areas look great. Any routes or areas you would suggest in those regions? They look like a short drive from Chiavenna too which we heard was a nice village to stay. Did you sample any of the lower cragging there if the weather up high was bad?

We climbed on a number of formations in Albigna.  In Sciora, I've only climbed Pizzi Gemelli.  Good stuff.  All the climbs are on the 'proj.

This summitpost page has some good info:

Val Masino info

Specific to Spazzacaldeira

Spazzacaldeira

The weather didn't have to be bad for us to sample the crags around Chiavenna (!).  The guidebook noted by g dub would work.  There's a newer edition but its not in English.

Great area!