Progress Capture for Downward Simul Climbing ???

Eric Craig wrote:

Jabroni, what you are describing is a little confusing to me, but appears to be an alternative to the OP scenario. I also imagine you did a fine job of it, even though I don't have a clear picture in my head. But you improvised, right? For your situation. 

Hey JM, go over to Name That Mountain and give my posted mountain a go. There are two clues upthread about the peak. No one else wants to play apparently. 

Yeah basically we were down simuling and the lower person had a gri gri to mange the slack if some built up while he was setting more gear or I was moving more quickly ( active lighting strikes at the time so we both wanted to be moving). Lower down there’s some short cruxes that would be dicey all wet with a river of water flowing over them.

Rather than risk a fall my parter lowered me to the next piece to which I went in direct. Then tied a bite and clipped in to the bite so I would stay attached/ on belay. Then untied, pulled the short loop of rope above me, retied in and continued down climbing together. We always had maybe 5-6 prices between us and in this instance he made a two piece anchor.

Edit : oh I see they want a progress capture to protect the down leader while simul down climbing…. Why not the revo?

Edit edit: I don’t know the peak. 

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

Yeah basically we were down simuling and the lower person had a gri gri to mange the slack if some built up while he was setting more gear or I was moving more quickly ( active lighting strikes at the time so we both wanted to be moving). Lower down there’s some short cruxes that would be dicey all wet with a river of water flowing over them.

Yeah the little 5.9ish crux would be a dicey down climb in a thunder storm. A few or several pieces placed in quick succession would make it reverse French free-able though. #9-11 stopper or Metolius 2-4 size I think. Haven't been there in 30 years, but I don't have enough fingers to count the number of times. Thanks for looking at the picture .

Ya, it's definitely pretty rare/niche for the down simul to be the right/best option.

I'm thinking long alpine where no established rappel stations exist and you have a short rope (so rappelling and leaving gear is costly time and gear wise), but terrain generally well within capability ... short sections in ridge climbing where you need to go down or around features with a downword trend ... 

Just exploring to see if something was out there, and i think not really.  Maybe revo would give at least a (false) sense of safety, and maybe better than nothing.

Alternative is to just down lead/follow with proper pitches (at the cost of time, vs being able to simul).  In that case it's pretty standard and not THAT much slower.

The example that sparked my interest was a linkup at Tahquitz, we went down the Trough. Could rappel, but no real stations, and our 50m rope would have needed probably 3-4 rappels, plus the lost time to transition, plus being in people's way for longer, etc.  We down simuled in two blocks, no big deal, but got me curious if something existed (a la the trax used while going up), to engineer a little more margin, hence the Q&A.

Thx again for your thoughts, I may pick up a revo just to test it out for another tool