Best climbing in Austin

I'll be out in Austin for a week with family. Might get in a day of climbing. Where would you recommend?

GO

Reimer’s/North Shore if just for a day. It’s not spectacular, but it is fun. Home of the 20’ sport route, so all you will need is a 30m rope and maybe six draws. The routes are shorter but much better than at the Greenbelt, IMHO. 

Frank Stein wrote:

Reimer’s/North Shore if just for a day. It’s not spectacular, but it is fun. Home of the 20’ sport route, so all you will need is a 30m rope and maybe six draws. The routes are shorter but much better than at the Greenbelt, IMHO. 

 Is there much at Reimers that will be in the shade, or should we head to North Shore? 

GO

Reimers is pretty sunny. I’d go to the North Shore to get shade. Same parking lot. 

Frank Stein wrote:

Reimers is pretty sunny. I’d go to the North Shore to get shade. Same parking lot. 

Thanks for the recommendation!  My wife and i spent the morning at North Shore of Reimers. We warmed up at The Dude crag, and then had a blast at Insanity wall. 

Thanks again for your suggestion!  One other thing - we're toying with the idea of taking our young daughter out for a day. I think Reimers would mostly be too hard. Would Barton Creek be a good option for stuff in the 5.3 - 5.7 range? 

GO

Boy, I really have no idea on that one. Anyone else want to chime in?

i'd probably have to agree with Adam on this, Enchanted Rock is a couple hours away, a granite dome that has some routes in that range

Yeah, I forgot about E Rock. That’s probably the best choice for easy routes, although a rack is generally required. 

Middle earth wall at reimers is quite good for the Austin area, especially compared to the horribly glassy slippery stuff in the greenbelt