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Digits always feel tweaky

Original Post
Renato Perez · · Sacramento CA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Hey everyone,


my fingers are always feeling immensely tweaky after sessions. I mostly boulder and an after a hard session, if someone shakes my hand too hard my joints eek in pain. I’d say it  to the 4/10 range but I really have to nurse em for a day until I’m back to normal.

I don’t climb crazy crispy lines, warm up for about 30 minutes and eat a decent amount of protein for recovery.

Anyone else have this issue? I had a finger injury joint injury on my  right g finger on my right hand and have made progress to be able to climb at my max, but it still lingers as well. I mostly climb the v5-v7 range indoors


I’m wondering if it’s just the cost of working into harder grades where the holds get smaller 


thanks! 

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

What I read is that your fingers only hurt for a day after a good session. That sounds amazing.

Dave Alie · · Golden, CO · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 75

Introducing some hangboarding (think repeaters, not max hangs; protocol doesn't matter very much) and some resistance training with weights has been incredibly helpful for my fingers and joints vs. when I only boulder (even if I warm up well). Having some of each in your training each week is the first thing I'd try

Karl Henize · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 648

It sounds like you have tenosynovitis.

You need to rest and recover.  Your recovery period should go faster if you do rehab excersizes.  If you don’t, you are likely to end up with a more severe injury.  Your muscles recover faster than your other tissues (tendons and ligaments).  When the soreness subsides, it does not necessarily mean that your tendons and ligaments have fully recovered and are stronger than before the training stimulus.  There is usually period of time between the cessation of soreness and the start of supercompensation.  If you return to high intensity climbing or training before supercompensation occurs, you will get an overuse injury.  

Renato Perez · · Sacramento CA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 0

Thanks for the replies everyone. I have a trip planned next week so I’m not climbing for the next couple of days and getting full rest.

I will definitely incorporate some resistance training, after the trip and see if that helps.

I had no frame of reference so I’m glad it’s not something too outlandish. 

Thanks!

bernard wolfe · · birmingham, al · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 300

anybody ever do the kung fu beans or rice in buckets work out for hand conditioning?

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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