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Best device for progress capture?

Original Post
Sean Cardenas · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 20

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone knew what was the best device for progress capture up a line in the event for example..you were to be on rapell and reach the bottom of the rope and need to somehow get up the rope or if let's say you need to get the rope above you unstuck. Would the Petzl Tibloc or the Petzl Nano Traxion be the best option? Why or why not? Thanks for your time and advice. 

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,697

Tibloc is a good choice for that "just in case" device that will spend 99% of its time on the back of your harness.  Whatever you get, PRACTICE USING IT before you need it under duress.

Alex C · · San Francisco · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 5

Not to say don’t get a Tibloc as well, but in your first scenario it’s worth learning to ascend a rope with an ATC-guide and a prussik with a foot loop. Or a Grigri if you were descending a single fixed strand. In the second scenario you should think carefully about whether that’s the safest way to free your rope — may be better to lead back up to the snag with the rest of the rope, placing gear as you go. 

George Bracksieck · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 3,829

If you’re descending a doubled rope or two ropes joined by a knot, you’ll need a device that can ascend two strands. The Petzl Shunt is the best. If your rappel device is an Alpine Smart or Alpine Up or Jul, you can slide it up while you’re hanging from the Shunt or a Prusik (or similar) hitch tied from a sling. If you’re rapping with an autoblock for a backup, it can be positioned above your harness, using a Prusik hitch (or alternative). Attach a long sling to it for one foot. Alternate sliding it (or the Shunt) up both strands with sliding up your assisted-locking rappel device. If you don’t have a rappel device that can capture upward progress on two strands, use a second Prusik, which would be connected to your harness. All you really need for this scenario are some slings, although adding a Shunt would make everything easier. Practice this technique before needing to use it. It can be slow, hard work!

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 350

You can get a microtraxion on Amazon for ~$65 right now on sale, I'd go that route because it's going to be more versatile than a tibloc. If you truly only need it to help ascend a rope, tibloc makes sense, but a microtrax is always a great piece to have on you when you're multi-pitch climbing. As has been said, whatever you go with - make sure you go out and practice using it before you truly need to use it

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120

For a "what if"/"just in case" perspective, I'd just take a prussik or ascend with klemheists with the runners I already carry. 

YMMV, and some people just like having extra gizmos, but in a long tenure with climbing, I never had need for a progress capture device (including prussik) except for rescue practices, hauling, top rope soling and as a cache loop manager for lead rope soloing. Currently use CAMP lift and CT roll'n'lock for TRS and roll'n'lock for LRS cache loop management. Micro Trax are good too, I use a prussik as third hand for rappelling at times, generally carry one for multipitch.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,839

I carry this: two 1/8" quick links with a long and short loop of 3mm accessory cord. (note: it's never to be considered an actual life support anchor since the loop is guaranteed to break at ~750 lbs)

I tie an RBS knot (hitch?) : http://www.verticalmuseum.com/VerticalDevicesPage/Ascender/CarabinerKnot/RBS.php

It costs almost nothing, weighs 39 grams, and wads down smaller than an egg. The RBS grabs instantly and releases as soon as it is unweighted, making it the best improvised method of ascending IMHO. Try it and you'll see. I carry it because sometimes the leader has all the slings.

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

There is no best, there are pros and cons. A dedicated device is going to be easier and more efficient, but weigh more. To me the very small chance I'd need one means it's not worth it to carry one all the time, especially when there's an alternative. I always have a few 6mm accessory cord slings on me on a carabiner with me. They are multi purpose: Extra slings if needed. Bail slings. For self rescue situations. And for Prussiks. You can ascend one rope or two together. They weigh next to nothing and aren't bulky. In hundreds of climbs I only needed to emergency ascend a rope once. So I'm glad I had something that worked, but also glad I didn't bring a device on hundreds of climbs that I didn't need.

P.S. as mentioned a belay device in guide mode can be used. However if you are rappelling it's usually configured for that and it may be challenging to switch over. If I was at a stance and could reconfigure I'd use a belay device in guide mode at my waist and a prusik sling above it (with a Bachmann knot) with leg loop slings girth hitched or clipped to it for leg loops and I'd frog style jug the rope. 

Tone Loc · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 0

Oh, so you’re looking to start a 900 reply fight on MP, I see.

Sean Cardenas · · Long Beach, CA · Joined Apr 2023 · Points: 20
Tone Loc wrote:

Oh, so you’re looking to start a 900 reply fight on MP, I see.

Te hehehehehe

Calum TM · · Squamish · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 76

If you’re talking multipitch environment. Microtrax is the winner. While it may be heavier than say a tibloc it’s far more versatile yet still insignificantly light. Use that thang for:

- ascending a rope

- hauling a bag

- progress capture for rescue

- efficient pulley for rescue 

- belaying your second 

- fix and following/TR Soling a pitch

- backup for simuling 

- keeping rope weight off the leader while freesnaking the ropes

Probably missing a bunch of uses but holy heck do I love my darn micro :) 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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