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Modern use for angles

Original Post
Matthew Hoff · · 5.9 crusher · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 906

Is there any modern use for angles and leepers? I cant seem to find a good way to use them other than to hand place sawed off angles. Also if I were to make a sawed off angle, how much pin should I cut off? 

Thanks!

cieneguita · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 152

Just counted today and I have thirty four 1/2” babys. Never cut them off!  

Seth Morgan · · Coeur d'Alene-Spokane · Joined Oct 2016 · Points: 614

Winter climbing; cams don’t work when the crack is icy. Most relevant modern use for angles.

Don Harder · · Yosemite via Seattle · Joined May 2019 · Points: 220

Wind chimes. They make a beautifully melodic sound.  

Ben Thompson · · Bend OR · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 5

Sawed offs are super useful, especially hand placed in old angle scars. I'd say cut off half.

Patrick M · · Greely Hill, CA · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 10

I typically cut off 1/3.  What your looking for is to reduce the length of the piton, while keeping just a tiny bit of taper in case you need to tap it

Darin Berdinka · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 503

Rap anchors in the alpine.  Drilled angles in crappy desert sandstone.  That’s where I keep leaving them.

nic houser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 10

The Canadian Rockies. Not so much leepers, though. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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