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Link Cams for Speedy C1?

Original Post
Chad Silva · · Napanoch, NY · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 414

Is anyone just keeping a pair of the Link Cams that go from 0.3 to 2 on the ends of their daisies, and blasting up C1 pitches?

Jam something off your harness for the rope on occasion, for sure. But I'm trying to figure out the downside. If you don't fall on them, they shouldn't explode and fix... right?

I've got one that's in great shape, and another that's in nearly-working-shape... just trying to figure out if the pair is worth bringing with me next trip.

Charles Winstead · · Mill Valley · Joined Jul 2021 · Points: 184

Word is they get stuck easily

Cameron J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 65
Charles Winsteadwrote:

Word is they get stuck easily

I’ve used them a bit for mostly free climbing, not like C1 walking but if it’s vertical i imagine they’d be decent. They get stuck when you try and put a #2 in a .4 placement

Cole Lawrence · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2017 · Points: 16

If you are using them to aid free climbs in deep cracks on windgate sandstone - maybe. But most aid routes require cams that utilize a narrow head profile to fit irregular shallow cracks. I recommend keeping two small offset cams on your daisies , and maybe a medium cam hook. You can usually blast C1 and C2 with this method. 

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

Last time I nipped up the Nose, I must've seen a dozen or more fixed Link Cams. They appear not to be very robust. 

That being said, they certainly do have a nice camming range. Just don't overcam them.

Bug Boy · · Boulder, CO :( · Joined Aug 2017 · Points: 81

Nope!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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