Olympic Climbing SPOILERS

All the positions in women’s seemed fought for and well earned - even Janja’s, who didn’t cruise everything. Even tho Ai got shafted on morpho boulders - Jessie Pilz earned the bronze by over ten points. Brooke kept it together throughout. It was definitely a comp where all the points mattered.

Really interesting to see Janja emotionally crack after winning - you can see the pressure she puts on herself. I can’t imagine that can be emotionally sustainable and I wonder if she’ll ever take a break from competing.

I can’t believe they brought back the Olympic commentator from Tokyo, who we all eye rolled even then. He has gotten no better, and seems to know nomore in three years between games. Just so bad. I feel for Petra (who has commentated  previously with Matt Groom with much better chemistry) having to work with his daft energy.

Apparently Europeans got commentary from Shauna Coxsey and Matt Groom - who are worlds better.

Also hearing Darude sandstorm a couple times lol

Agreed, that women’s final was one of the better competitions I’ve seen. Very emotional and so much fun to watch. Well set and got me super inspired. 

I watched via Peacock, with live commentary from Epic Climbing Daily synced up. That was excellent. For me, Collin Duffy getting B4, and Brooke getting B3 were absolutely thrilling moments. Toby’s reaction when he realized he’d won was awesome, and Janya and Brooke’s embrace after Janya won was beautiful.

The difference between the lead climbers and the bouldering specialists was really visible during this comp. I’d love to be a fly on the wall for post Olympic review and coaching sessions. It still blows my mind that top level athletes and everyday duffers look the same(ish) when they’re about to come off.

Tony S wrote:

Even tho Ai got shafted on morpho boulders

I think it's hard to say that Ai got shafted on morpho boulders, she is terrible at jumping by world cup standards. I tend to think that it is more of a skill deficiency than a problem with setting. Being small has advantages as well, see the box on Boulder 3. I wouldn't be surprised if Ai stops competing in Boulder altogether now that the Olympics are over.

Brooke and Jessi were in incredible shape, really cool to see how hard they worked on their weaknesses to become so well rounded.

Victor K wrote:

I watched via Peacock, with live commentary from Epic Climbing Daily synced up.

Dammit. Wish I'd thought of that...

I'd love to see janja compete with the boys.

The setters used the hang from two hands and swing both legs gimmick twice in the same competition.  Once was eye opening (best case) or tedious (worst case).  Twice was gratuitous.  

Adam Ondra and Mori Ai lead with amazing style.  Cool to watch people climb like that.  

Almost forgot: Ondra finding a knee bar at the top of the lead route. Big lol. 

Alex Buisse wrote:

It was an exhibition sport in 2014, which in theory is a practice run before being admitted as a full olympic sport, but in this particular case was clearly a one off as the UIAA had little interest in going through the IOC hoops in the ways the IFSC has. It is very, very unlikely that winter climbing will be coming back to the olympic scene anytime soon.

That's unfortunate, I always enjoy watching all climbing comp aspects, but ice climbing just has this edge to it that draws you in. Figured that would be a good one for the world stage.

Thank you for the insight though!

Israel R wrote:

I think it's hard to say that Ai got shafted on morpho boulders, she is terrible at jumping by world cup standards. I tend to think that it is more of a skill deficiency than a problem with setting. Being small has advantages as well, see the box on Boulder 3. I wouldn't be surprised if Ai stops competing in Boulder altogether now that the Olympics are over.

Brooke and Jessi were in incredible shape, really cool to see how hard they worked on their weaknesses to become so well rounded.

Did Ai get shafted?  This question is lingering with me.  

The blue circle problem start could have been three inches lower.  The skill to start would have been essentially the same for all competitors and it would not have deselected one.  5-25 points 

The yellow slab didn’t seem to deselect.

The white fling/who can jam her finger probably didn’t deselect.  Rabatou ultimately mastered stepping through to the first 5 points with limited flight.  

If Ai can jump better or higher maybe she goes to the final at 38+24.  But if Rabatou clips from one hold lower on the final lead, she may have picked up 8-12 more points and won.  Pilz left very little room for Ai to have squeezed in.  Garnbret likely could have focused and earned 8-12 more points had the need been there.

One problem likely did not shaft Mori is where I come out.  But as long as setting is subjective, and I hope it remains so, the setters can consider not deselecting when it does compromise in meritorious selection.  What is merit is the next question.  In professional sports, what is innate or god given cannot be excluded.

As much as I loved seeing Mori lead, I loved watching McNeice climb way above her ranking and in the same degree fail to see Garnbret, Rabatou and Pilz as undeserving of their medals because Mori could not start one problem.  

Enough this Ai Mori got shafted stupidity.

Ai Mori is 5'1"(154cm)

Brooke Raboutou is 5'2"(157cm)

There are plenty of IFSC climbers who are at Ai's height or less.

Laura Rogora is 152cm, shorter than Ai

Jain Kim is 152cm, shorter than Ai

Manon Hilly is 154cm, same height as Ai

Just to name a few. 

Brooke is only 1 inch taller than Ai. 1 inch advantage is nothing when it comes to climbing.

Also go watch Jain Kim competing in bouldering. There are quite a few video from IFSC circuit last year or the year before last year. She is 2cm shorter, but far more skilled at dynamic movement than Ai.

Ai sucks at dynamic skill. It is her weakness. The question should be asked is why she DOES NOT TRAIN AT HER WEAKNESS. If Jain can do it, Why can't Ai do it? Brooke is only 1inch taller than her, if Brooke can do it, why can't Ai do dynamic movement?

Enough this height BS.

Jake Foster wrote:

Enough this Ai Mori got shafted stupidity.

Enough this height BS.

You sound mad dude.

It’s pretty clear that height is an advantage on some moves/boulders and a disadvantage on others.

Pretty sure we can all leave it at that.

Until Colin Duffy floated and flew through some coordinated jump problems, the whole flying climber scenario seemed ridiculous.  Duffy is so good at it, he made it seem interesting.  

Pretty sure Ai Mori could do those jumps if she had been doing squats and jump box for the last 18 months. But she just climbs. The Japanese team has reportedly begged her to train but she says she’s tried training and it’s not for her, she just climbs. She’s likely the best lead climber in the world doing that so everything is as it should be. If she wanted a medal bad enough to train, she’d probably have one. 

Dang, to be clear I didn’t mean to set off height  storm. Ai got dealt a hand that was a weakness. My point was more that - even had the hand been dealt more in favor for Ai - Jessie still won it. 

I’m trying to say this comp actually seemed less randomized than other comps- that everyone in the top three genuinely fought for their position. 

Doug Chism wrote:

Pretty sure Ai Mori could do those jumps if she had been doing squats and jump box for the last 18 months. But she just climbs. The Japanese team has reportedly begged her to train but she says she’s tried training and it’s not for her, she just climbs. She’s likely the best lead climber in the world doing that so everything is as it should be. If she wanted a medal bad enough to train, she’d probably have one. 

This seems spot on, to me. As a spectator, it's pretty easy to wish that everyone who competes is equally motivated to solve the entire comp puzzle. I think that Ai's climbing is a bit activating, because she simply doesn't "look" like she's trying hard on the dynamic boulders. Her lead climbing looks so placid, and she bested the entire field, by a lot. And just when you think she's hopelessly outclassed in the boulder comp, she floats the power problem.

The comp climbers are amazing.

Doug Chism wrote:

The Japanese team has reportedly begged her to train but she says she’s tried training and it’s not for her, she just climbs. She’s likely the best lead climber in the world doing that so everything is as it should be. 

I hope the is true.  If the goofy jumps and starts don’t do meet her aesthetic requirements, fcuk’em.  

Sadly, her expressions didn’t convey the disdain or self satisfaction of someone who would not condescend to climbing like a flying squirrel.  Her coaches expressions suggested awe at her successes rather than frustrated by her untrained and foreseeable defeats.  IMHO.