Olympic Climbing SPOILERS

Brian in SLC wrote:

Yeah, dunno....maybe that left foot drop knee didn't put them in a position to get the next hold?  Shut everyone down.  Kinda wonder if they switched around to a right foot on that hold...

Anyhow...good stuff.  Nice to see Ondra in there for the finals.  Wish Alex coulda made it.  Nice to see one of the US climbers make the top 8 and looked strong.

Ondra slapped the last hold he reached.  He looked calm.  My questions: did he know he qualified already and elected not to spend the energy?  Did he understand his mistake when he reached the apex and not bother with more effort?  Obviously, those are the only possibles.  

M Lead was amazing.  Megos lost concentration for a split second too long.  Hard to see his frustration and disappointment.  

I've said this 4 years ago but they should move climbing to winter Olympics.

That or move the event indoors.

It's ironic that Watson set the new world record and got the bronze medal in the same speed lap.

Will Myers wrote:

It's ironic that Watson set the new world record and got the bronze medal in the same speed lap.

It's a weird format. No other race uses a head-to-head format. They can't do heats; they'd have to do it like a cycling time trial and have everyone go individually. I assume that the head-to-head format is there to make it at least somewhat interesting to watch :) (and I know that it's not an Olypmic-specific format for speed climbing, so comparing it to other races isn't necessarily apt, but...) 

Gutted for Natalia, she looked really unsure on some of those early moves, resting more than expected, and then and only ended up need about 4 more holds to go through.  Brooke's got a great shot though...at silver. 

Jeremy L wrote:

I've said this 4 years ago but they should move climbing to winter Olympics.

That or move the event indoors.

Now that you mention winter Olympics, I wonder if we will see Ice Climbing in Winter Olympics soon? I know it took place in 2014, but didn't have a medal count to it if I'm remembering right? Or maybe that's wrong, but would still be neat to see Ice Climbing hit the stage.

Women's semi was exciting.  Especially the last few competitors.  Glad to see Brooke get third and hope she shows well in the finals.  Janja...wow.  The very young looking Japanese gal Ai Mori (no way she's 20!) crushed that lead route.  Janja bloodied her middle finger on her left hand likely from the re-adjust bump on that crimper on the finish jug.  Hopefully minor.

The P-cock coverage is fairly irritating.  Cutting to the crowd in the middle of a move...or a commercial.  Ugh.  At least the commentary is good.

Finals should be fun to watch.

do their scores reset when they go to the finals ie everyone is at 0 pts or does it roll over

Matthew Bertolatus wrote:

Gutted for Natalia, she looked really unsure on some of those early moves, resting more than expected, and then and only ended up need about 4 more holds to go through.  Brooke's got a great shot though...at silver. 

Yeah she was having problems choosing her feet, using lots of energy and her elbows came out really early. When she went by that rest without even a mini shake I knew the end was near. Sometimes it’s just like that, we’ve all been there, felt that way, it’s a shame but she’ll be back. 

Kevin Crum wrote:

do their scores reset when they go to the finals ie everyone is at 0 pts or does it roll over

Scores are re-set. Countback could be used if there was a tie in the finals, but there's almost no chance of ties now because of the 0.1 scoring system.

They start fresh at zero I'd guess with brand new routes.  Big difference is order.  Best goes last.

The speed climbers don't have to contend with distractions from the onsite commentator while competing, but just how the combined competitors can blend out all that reductionist commentary and continuous use of their name, I'll never understand. That must be very distracting. They are climbers with ears, not dancing bears.

Who decided on DJs and a commentators? Doesn't the climbing action speak loudly and proudly enough for itself?

Noel Z wrote:

The speed climbers don't have to contend with distractions from the onsite commentator while competing, but just how the combined competitors can blend out all that reductionist commentary and continuous use of their name, I'll never understand. That must be very distracting. They are climbers with ears, not dancing bears.

Who decided on DJs and a commentators? Doesn't the climbing action speak loudly and proudly enough for itself?

At least at our local comps, both of those were always present for finals. I'm sure that they're used to it, but it always seemed distracting to me.

Matthew Bertolatus wrote:

Maybe.  Don't have strong feelings either way, but would note if they used the multiplication system from last time, the top 4 would be the same, in the same order.  Qualifiers 5 and 6 would also go through under both systems.  The people getting "screwed" are Tomoa and Sam A, who got 2 and 4, respectively, in bouldering, but tied for 14th in lead.  Is that better than 11/6 (Duffy) or 8/8 (Hamish)?  I'd note Duffy and Hamish did A LOT better on lead, feels like there should be some reward for that.  Obviously no perfect way to score it, 

Amazing how different the men's lead/boulder final standings would have been with the multiplication system from last time!

Cheering hard against Sorato, not because I want Duffy to medal but because if he wins gold in Skwamas, that's one more excuse out of my arsenal, and I need every one I can get. 

Definitely interesting how using the multiplication system would have changed the result of the men who qualified for finals! Women's would not have changed much, although miho nonaka would have tied for 8th I think, and there would have to have been a judgement call there (disclaimer: I don't fully understand how the 0.1 Point scoring system works, so the theoretical 2020 style rankings could be wrong).

Matthew Bertolatus wrote:

Gutted for Natalia, she looked really unsure on some of those early moves, resting more than expected, and then and only ended up need about 4 more holds to go through.  Brooke's got a great shot though...at silver. 

Natalia qualified back at the Pan Am games, whereas Brooke had to come through the qual series, multiple rounds  the exact format at Olympics in the last couple of months.  So while that must have been stressful for her it means she has had to stay absolutely “competition ready“ physically and mentally.  I’m sure Natalia had not been lying on a coach for the last 6 months but maybe she somehow was not quite as prepared.

Kephas Petros wrote:

Now that you mention winter Olympics, I wonder if we will see Ice Climbing in Winter Olympics soon? I know it took place in 2014, but didn't have a medal count to it if I'm remembering right? Or maybe that's wrong, but would still be neat to see Ice Climbing hit the stage.

It was an exhibition sport in 2014, which in theory is a practice run before being admitted as a full olympic sport, but in this particular case was clearly a one off as the UIAA had little interest in going through the IOC hoops in the ways the IFSC has. It is very, very unlikely that winter climbing will be coming back to the olympic scene anytime soon.

Mum Climber wrote:

Natalia qualified back at the Pan Am games, whereas Brooke had to come through the qual series, multiple rounds  the exact format at Olympics in the last couple of months.  So while that must have been stressful for her it means she has had to stay absolutely “competition ready“ physically and mentally.  I’m sure Natalia had not been lying on a coach for the last 6 months but maybe she somehow was not quite as prepared.

Natalia also was in a knee brace up until around a month ago due to wild boulders at the SLC WC. Definitely sad to not see her in the finals but hopefully Brooke can put up a good fight in finals. 

Wow...great, and emotional, women's final.  Whew!

Come on...get the clip first!  So close...

Exciting and a fun watch.  Big separation in the field after the bouldering.  Strong lead to match determined the winners.