what are your preferred methods on extending rope on master point from anchor?
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(Apology in advance for my crappy sketch :) ) What is your thought? or do you have other methods? |
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I do 2, and i usually just walk to the edge or downclimb. I haven't tried 1 or 2. One doesn't sound ideal because I think you would still want to be on belay, i like the efficiency of allowing your partner to get ready for the pitch. 3 I haven't tried but I usually only bring one locker to anchor myself and it sounds like you would need two for that. |
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Patrick Normile wrote: Same here. I usually use method 2, and just walk/down climb to the edge. If the down climb is risky/steep, I just put myself on my belay device. You don't need to be on your partner belay for the method 1, but you probably should put yourself on belay in case you let go of the free strain. Method 3 is very interesting, and something I just saw someone did it, which is pretty cool. Although you do need 2 lockers. |
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I usually clip the masterpoint with a locker or double biners walk or lower myself to desired location while still on belay and tie a clove to my harness on the other side of the rope from my tie in so there are two strands going up to the MP. |
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Victor Creazzi wrote: My technique is similar but rather than clove hitch to the harness I take the double strands and tie a an overhand on a bight about two feet (within arms reach) from my harness thus creating a new master point. |
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Tim FromMaine wrote: I often tie a butterfly in each strand near my body to create another MP if I think escaping the system is a remote possibility. An overhand would accomplish the same thing more simply and I may adopt that. |
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Tim FromMaine wrote: That's my set-up of choice as well. |
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The advantage to method one is once you have your second attached to the extended masterpoint you both can self belay to the original anchor on the munter, here's a great video from Ryan Tilly talking through a few options. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBerkDcO5ag With any of these methods (and most things in life) there's a tradeoff of safety vs time/efficiency. If its a big comfy flat ledge I'm generally going with method 2 |
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What Daniel said. Munter at anchor. Rap yourself to edge. Tie knot in both strands for MP. Belay from MP where you can see second. When second arrives, use munter to belay both climbers simultaneously to anchor (clip second to MP, both climbers pull on brake strand to ascend). |
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I just belay from the anchor. Have yet to find a situation where I need to extend myself to the edge. |
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Victor Creazzi wrote: That's what I would usually do, afterall you have a belayer and as the saying goes 'you don't keep a dog and bark' |
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#1 and just tie a BHK masterpoint once you figure out where you want your masterpoint to be (like timfrommaine said). Also, if the terrain is flat, I won’t even use a munter. I’ll just clip the rope into a locker and walk to wherever I want the masterpoint to be while of course being mindful to not throw myself off the cliff. I also don’t call ‘off-belay’ until the masterpoint is tied and the belay device is clipped to it |
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#justusetherope |
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It amazes me how much people overthink simple stuff. |
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I think that most of the time, with an extended anchor, the belayer is better off sitting on the edge. Standing with a long tether introduces pendulum instability in the stance, and the belayer can be pulled over if the load comes from just a slightly unanticipated direction. In these situations, I mostly sit and belay from the rope tie-in loop (not the harness belay loop), with the anchor strand taut enough that all belay loads go straight to the anchor. As for knots, I don't do any of methods 1-3. I tie a small overhand loop just behind my tie-in knot, clip a locker to that, and install a munter on that locker, and use that to "rappel" to the edge. Once situated, I just mule off the munter. If I want to stand and do a guide plaquette belay, I'll tie the overhand loop a bit farther from my tie-in knot and then it becomes the power point. In the methods I described, you could dispense with the overhand loop and clip to the tie-in loop, but doing that significantly complicates belay escape, should the need arise. |
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#2 is what I usually do, then tie a masterpoint in the followers rope to belay from. |