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Index finger "supports" on handles?

Original Post
Martin Colwell · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 30

I own Nomics.  They have a protrusion to support your index finger.  But it's not that pronounced and it doesn't do a ton for me.  I've used X-dreams and they have the same but I think it's more pronounced and I find that it helps a lot.  Mainly it's the pressure on my pinky that I don't like.  It seems to me that it's mostly from my hand sliding down the handle and resting against the pommel.  But the X-dreams index finger support helps my index finger take load off the pinky.  I find that the more individual finger support a handle has then the longer I can hang on them.

My question is:

1. Is there a good reason why most handles on ice tools are designed without this feature or if they do it's not that pronounced?  Is there a major drawback I'm not thinking of?  Likewise there's pretty much never a support in second position.

2.  Because if there isn't then I'm thinking a project I might want to do is "shape" my handles so that they have a larger index finger support and maybe add a support for my middle finger.  If I do this has anyone else done this?  Do you know what works and what doesn't?

Thank you!

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,687

The DIY index finger support on my 1st Gen Quarks. I'd say my weight is 30% on that and 70% on the hook at the bottom.  THE PROBLEM with these things is they are very specific when it comes to hand size and even glove thickness.  2nd Gen Quarks had that adjustable piece for the index finger, but most folks seem to take it off even if it hadn't broken (yet).

 

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
Martin Colwell wrote:

I own Nomics.  They have a protrusion to support your index finger.  But it's not that pronounced and it doesn't do a ton for me.  I've used X-dreams and they have the same but I think it's more pronounced and I find that it helps a lot.  Mainly it's the pressure on my pinky that I don't like.  It seems to me that it's mostly from my hand sliding down the handle and resting against the pommel.  But the X-dreams index finger support helps my index finger take load off the pinky.  I find that the more individual finger support a handle has then the longer I can hang on them.

My question is:

1. Is there a good reason why most handles on ice tools are designed without this feature or if they do it's not that pronounced?  Is there a major drawback I'm not thinking of?  Likewise there's pretty much never a support in second position.

2.  Because if there isn't then I'm thinking a project I might want to do is "shape" my handles so that they have a larger index finger support and maybe add a support for my middle finger.  If I do this has anyone else done this?  Do you know what works and what doesn't?

Thank you!

I prefer the opposite and have ground the index finger support off of my Xdreams.

I feel that the index support keeps me from allowing the tool to “rotate” around my pinky during the swing. This is also a part of my preference for the Hydras that BD is releasing because they don’t have any index support.

I believe this was an intentional design decision for BD. I recall hearing from a friend there that some they did some homework and found that most people swing with the pinky as the rotation point and that index support interfered with it. 

Christian Donkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 70

Indeed specific to use cases, hand size, glove size, etc. It’s not a one size fits all.

A friend of mine customizes all his handles with epoxy (and a few other materials) and molds the handles to his liking. It seems to work well for him and has the consequence of preventing others from using his tools comfortably.

Martin Colwell · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 30
Christian Donkey wrote:

A friend of mine customizes all his handles with epoxy (and a few other materials) and molds the handles to his liking. It seems to work well for him and has the consequence of preventing others from using his tools comfortably.

Any chance I could get more specifics on this? Do you mean like the jb weld epoxy putty stuff? 


Yeah I was hoping that eventually a few people might respond with some kind of detailed description of what they did that could be useful to me in figuring out how best to do this.

Bruno Schull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 0

There was once a thread for funky, fugly feet...I (almost) won. 

Respectfully, I think this masterpiece might win a price for funkiest, fugliest, ice tool. 

Of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Grant Watson · · Red Deer, AB · Joined Feb 2023 · Points: 13

As Christian DuBois points out, people have different approaches, preferences, and results with different grip designs.  In the last couple of seasons I've become a full believer (thanks to an excellent pro climber coach) in what I call the "stack and jam" philosophy.  By having a more upright grip like the Nomic (and unlike the Ergo and X-Dream) with no significant pointer finger "trigger rest," it allows you to wrap your fingers in a way that when they inevitably slide to the bottom, the fingers on the bottom - the pinkie and ring fingers -are jammed in place.  It can hurt like hell, but it also relieves the grip muscles and, for me, makers for longer grip endurance.  If you lift weights, you can think of it as an equivalent of the hook grip for dead lifts - it hurts, but it works.  There's also the effects on the swing, which I've also come to realize I hadn't been paying enough attention to in my early years of climbing.

Of course, the good news is that with the apparent high frequency of Nomic handles detaching from the shaft, you just have to work out a reattachment mechanism and you can make yourself an array of different handles to enjoy on any given day!  

Martin Colwell · · Arlington, MA · Joined Jan 2022 · Points: 30
Grant Watson wrote:

Of course, the good news is that with the apparent high frequency of Nomic handles detaching from the shaft, you just have to work out a reattachment mechanism and you can make yourself an array of different handles to enjoy on any given day!  

Yeah... that is also scaring me.  I might just buy some X-Dreams instead of modifying my nomics. If I can find the funds :'-(

NateC · · Utah · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 1
Martin Colwell wrote:

Yeah... that is also scaring me.  I might just buy some X-Dreams instead of modifying my nomics. If I can find the funds :'-(

For what it’s worth, if you are considering the xdreams then you may not have to modify much. They come with an additional extended index finger attachment for the first position. They also come with a moveable third position rest than can be slid down for an index finger rest in the second position. 

JJ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

Imo once you start using the tool in other directions than straight down the index finger rest will become painful and counter-productive. Some people claim they can mold the handle by laying epoxy and then squeezing it in different grip positions so that it's comfortable in all situations, but I have a hard time believing that. 

Christian Donkey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 70
JJ wrote:

Imo once you start using the tool in other directions than straight down the index finger rest will become painful and counter-productive. Some people claim they can mold the handle by laying epoxy and then squeezing it in different grip positions so that it's comfortable in all situations, but I have a hard time believing that. 

I’m pretty sure we’re talking about the same person unless you know of others? 

Martin, I can put you in touch with him if you’d like to pick his brain over the phone since he’s not on MP. I’m sure he’d be happy to provide you instructions if you’re still interested.

JJ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 0

No, I was talking about a former worldcup competitor. I would definitely not trust anyone climbing on skeletons in any statement about comfort.

Greg Steele · · SLC, UT · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 60
Martin Colwell wrote:

Yeah... that is also scaring me.  I might just buy some X-Dreams instead of modifying my nomics. If I can find the funds :'-(

To misquote twain regarding nomics: reports of my death have been greatly exaggerated

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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