Tree anchor for upward pull?

Looking to LRS a few routes that are going to require I use a tree as a ground anchor. What would be the best way to anchor to the tree to hold an upward pull in case of a fall? I was thinking multiple raps around the tree then finishing with a bowline or something.  

Several factors to consider: how much rope/material do you have to build the anchor vs. how much do you need for the climb, if/how much you're planning to fall (and therefore how many times the anchor will be loaded/unloaded), how effective will the oppositional first piece be in holding position of the ground anchor (especially as it's loaded/unloaded), what angle the tree trunk is relative to the climb, texture of the tree, etc.

Most of the time I do something simple like you've described, either using the rope and tying a bowline possibly including a few wraps or otherwise just tying it tight to the trunk, or a cordellete and tying a BFK close to the trunk. Less frequently there are situations where this kind of simple anchor could slide up the tree (if you were to fall); best case this results in a longer fall for you, worst case is the anchor slides completely off the tree or wraps around part of the tree that cannot support the force of a fall. If that's a great enough possibility (an assessment you must make), a few things you can do: incorporate a clove hitch around the tree, use gear to hold the anchor down, change position of the oppositional first piece so angles work out better (if possible of course).

Probably not the simple answer you may have been looking for, but hopefully this helps!

Thanks for the info! I think I will try a bowline with a few raps. I also think the angle of the tree in relation to the climb would make it quite hard for the anchor to slide up (at least a large amount) if I do fall. But I just wanted to get some input anyway. The route is quite easy so that shouldn't happen but you never know. Again I appreciate the help! 

I use flat webbing usually for this purpose, and I find it creates so much friction that it doesn't budge upwards at all. Rope can get pulled upwards more easily, but with a few wraps around I imagine you'd be pretty good to go.

There’s a ton of info in the BigWall forum, there was one in particular I think Kevin DeWeese, he would in-line a Yates Screamer that is a brilliant idea for LRS solo, so way before MP or internet books were how you learned, I used to solo up some sketchy 1-4” bolts/ rivets and I thot that was the shit, Usually those routes are retro bolted now but you’ll never forget those good times.

Solo on

Edit:  you can girth hitch a long sling or whatever around the tree,  the harder you pull the tighter it gets, then take up the lead line slack n clove hitch that to the first good pro.   

I use a double wrap with a bowline to anchor on the ground. Usually on my first piece I pull up the rope and tie a clove hitch. This locks everything together and keeps from having a hero loop form on the ground as you get farther up a pitch. I’ve used screamers on really hard pitches or when aiding. I try to avoid both while LRS.

Kevin Strickerwrote:

I use a double wrap with a bowline to anchor on the ground. Usually on my first piece I pull up the rope and tie a clove hitch. This locks everything together and keeps from having a hero loop form on the ground as you get farther up a pitch. I’ve used screamers on really hard pitches or when aiding. I try to avoid both while LRS.

I believe this is what I’ll do. Appreciate it

Look into arborist single rope climbing technique. A running bowline or figure 8 at the base is pretty standard. A metal rap ring can be used if rope on rope action bothers you, but it is more likely to loosen when unweighted.