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Bivvy Ledge Setup

Original Post
Will Sarty · · Lawrencetown, NS · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 225

Thinking about big wall routes that have good size ledges, using a bivvy setup, how does one secure themselves to the anchor when inside the bivvy zipped up lol 


It may be a stupid question, but I can’t picture it


thanks!

Mark Hudon · · Reno, NV · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

Yeah, it’s pretty obvious. You’re sleeping with your harness or a “sleeping sling” and you’re tied in. The rope runs down from your anchor into your bivy sac and sleeping bag. 

Will Sarty · · Lawrencetown, NS · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 225
Mark Hudon wrote:

Yeah, it’s pretty obvious. You’re sleeping with your harness or a “sleeping sling” and you’re tied in. The rope runs down from your anchor into your bivy sac and sleeping bag. 

That’s what I thought. Just seems counter intuitive to have a bivvy sack that’s supposed to be closed and leaving a hole for the rope to go out. Guess it’s good for venting too lol


thanks!

Luke Stefurak · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 2,629
Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645

^^ I have this bivy sack. It will keep you dry. However the through-the-side-wall clip in system is total Big Wall Theory. 

Have a bunch of slings girth hitched together, and run them through the same way you climb in. 

You know, a double length sling used to tie round my waist quite easily, but not any more. I guess they are making them smaller these days. 

Brian R · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 1

The Integral Designs Salathe Bivy Sack had the best design for staying tethered while sleeping.  A bit on the heavy side but worth it.  

Mike J · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2023 · Points: 0

I think it was Andy KP that clipped himself to his biggest stopper, pressed it against the fabric inside his bivy bag and girth hitched it from the outside with a sling to the anchor.

Brian R · · San Luis Obispo, CA · Joined Sep 2021 · Points: 1
Mike J wrote:

I think it was Andy KP that clipped himself to his biggest stopper, pressed it against the fabric inside his bivy bag and girth hitched it from the outside with a sling to the anchor.

I remember seeing a picture similar to that, of a bivy on Changabang in Climbing magazine (probably 96 or 97). 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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