Preferred knot for joining fixed lines

I use the EDK with knotted tails for joining two ropes for rappel.  What about two single lines for fixed lines that will be jugged.  Double fisherman, EDK  or figure eight.  Thanks 

Double Fisherman trapped in an Alpine Butterfly

What a great idea!  Wherever did you see that first?   ;) 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Double Fisherman trapped in an Alpine Butterfly

Show off.  ;)

Probably unties nicely when it comes time to replace or tear down. 

Bill Lawry wrote:

Show off.  ;)

Probably unties nicely when it comes time to replace or tear down. 

Yup, and it gives a ready made clip in point for the rap transfer on your way down.

And yes, this is part of the Dr. Piton "Better Way" handbook. 

Thanks.  

I think I first published it in a Tech Tip for either Climbing Mag or Rock & Ice back in the late 90s or early 00s. 

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Double Fisherman trapped in an Alpine Butterfly

Don't mind if I do

It doesn't matter which knot is isolated in the butterfly - it could be an EDK aka flat overhand or a follow-through figure of 8 too. The additional benefit to adding the butterfly - besides it being easy to untie - is it gives you a place to clip in while passing the knot.  

Regardless of the type of knot, it is a pain in the ass to cross, especially on rappel. So whenever possible, instead of forcing yourself to cross a knot, have the ropes start and finish at a rebelay like we cavers do.  This will save you plenty of time and effort. 

Crossing a rebelay as seen here is ten times quicker and easier than crossing a knot, so Kevin's excellent photo above should always be your last resort when there is no way to build a rebelay.  Adding a Yates adjustable daisy to your caving rig makes rebelay crossings on rappel a snap - no more one-arm pullups required to unload your cow's tail and get back on your rappel rack.  ;)  

BYOA - Bring Your Own Agave